Told in the hills
The night South Lhonak broke
South Lhonak is a glacial lake at about 5,200 m in the far north-west of the district. In 1977 satellite images showed it at about 17 hectares. As the Lhonak glacier retreated, it grew, and by 28 September 2023 it covered about 167 hectares. Scientists had listed it among the most dangerous lakes in the Sikkim Himalaya, and in 2018 pipes carried up by yak were installed to start draining it. An early warning system was still being planned when the rains came.
In the first days of October 2023 Sikkim received several times its normal rainfall. On the night of 4 October the lake burst its moraine wall. A warning reached the Teesta-III dam at Chungthang around midnight, and the operators tried to open the gates, but the flood arrived first. The 1,200 MW dam was destroyed in minutes. Downstream the Teesta rose by 15 to 20 feet, through Dikchu, Singtam, Rangpo and into West Bengal and Bangladesh.
More than 90 people were confirmed dead within two weeks, among them Indian Army soldiers, and fifteen bridges were lost. For North Sikkim the flood rewrote the map: Chungthang was badly damaged, the road to Lachen was cut, and Lachen did not reopen to tourists until March 2026, after the new Taram Chu bridge was built. That is why we ask you to treat every North Sikkim plan as provisional.
Pinned to the board
Did you know
Gurudongmar Lake sits at 5,430 m according to the Government of Sikkim, which makes it one of the highest lakes in the world that tourists can drive to.
The Teesta is born up here: Tso Lhamo lake, about 5 km from Gurudongmar, is counted as its source, and the river joins its Lachen and Lachung arms at Chungthang.
The botanist Joseph Dalton Hooker walked up the Lachen valley in May 1849 and later went into the Lachung valley, collecting rhododendron seed that ended up in English gardens.
Lachen and Lachung govern themselves through the Dzumsa, a village council headed by an elected Pipon, which the Sikkim government formally recognised in 2001.
Dzongu was declared a reserve for the Lepcha people by a royal proclamation of the Chogyal in 1956, and outsiders still need a special permit to enter.





















