Told in the hills
A border ridge and its old Land Rovers
The Singalila Ridge runs north–south from Kangchenjunga, and for most of its length it is the border between India and Nepal. The trail to Sandakphu follows that line so closely that walkers step in and out of Nepal all day: Tumling, Gairibas and parts of the route sit on the Nepal side, with small lodges where you pay in either currency. Singalila National Park protects the Indian side of the ridge, a strip of high forest that is one of the best places in India to look for the red panda.
For decades the only motor link to the top has been a narrow, steep track from Manebhanjan. It is too rough for most modern cars, so the job is done by a fleet of old Land Rovers, many of them Series models from the 1950s and 1960s, kept running by local drivers and mechanics. The drivers' association sets fares and runs the vehicles in turn. Riding one up the hairpins, with the roof rack loaded and the gears grinding, has become as much a part of Sandakphu as the sunrise.
Pinned to the board
Did you know
At 3,636 m, Sandakphu is the highest point in West Bengal.
From Sandakphu, on a clear day, you can see four of the world's five highest peaks: Everest, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse and Makalu.
Singalila National Park, which the trail to Sandakphu passes through, is known as one of the best places in India to see the red panda in the wild.






