Told in the hills
The Divine Madman and the temple of Chimi
Drukpa Kunley (1455–1529) was a Tibetan yogi of the Drukpa school who taught by breaking every rule. Bhutanese stories have him drinking, singing bawdy songs and mocking pompous monks and officials, all to shake people out of their attachments. He is loved in Bhutan as a saint, not a joke. Tradition credits him with subduing a demoness at Dochula who took the form of a dog, and the name Chimi Lhakhang is linked to that story. He also introduced the painted phallus as a protection against the evil eye and gossip, which is why you see them on farmhouse walls.
The temple itself was built in 1499 by his cousin Ngawang Chogyal on a small round hill near Lobesa, where Drukpa Kunley had blessed the site. Couples hoping for children come from across Bhutan and beyond to receive a blessing: a lama touches them on the head with a wooden phallus said to have belonged to the saint, and some draw a bamboo slip from the altar to choose a name for the child. Visitors are welcome. Treat it as the place of prayer it is; the humour belongs to the stories, not to the people praying.
Pinned to the board
Did you know
Punakha Dzong was Bhutan's seat of government until 1955, when the capital moved to Thimphu.
The Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal's embalmed body is kept in the Machey Lhakhang inside Punakha Dzong, which is closed to visitors.
King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck married Jetsun Pema at Punakha Dzong on 13 October 2011.













