Now in the hills

DarjeelingTour Plan

Travel style

Food and markets

Momo, thukpa, churpi and first-flush tea

The haats and markets of the hills, Tibetan and Nepali kitchens, Lepcha and Bhutia home food, Bhutan's ema datshi and red rice, Dooars fish curries, and the old bakeries and tea rooms of Darjeeling and Kalimpong. Cheap to eat well, if you know where.

Hill food is built for cold mornings and long days: noodle soups, dumplings, fermented greens (gundruk), fermented soybean (kinema), hard yak or cow cheese (churpi) and sel roti, a ring-shaped rice bread made for festivals.

Weekly haats are the best markets to see, and the cheapest places to eat are the small momo and thukpa shops near the bazaars. In Bhutan almost every dish has chilli as a vegetable rather than a spice: ask for it mild.

Places

Where it fits best

Darjeeling
Darjeeling2,042 m

Tea, toy trains and Kangchenjunga from the Mall

Hill town · best Mar – May · Oct – Dec · 2–4 nights
Sittong
Sittong1,200 m

Orange orchards and hornbill forest below Kurseong

Village · best Nov – Jan · 1–2 nights
Kalimpong
Kalimpong1,250 m

A trade town on a ridge above the Teesta

Hill town · best Mar – May · Oct – Dec · 2 nights
Teesta Bazaar
Teesta Bazaar200 m

The river crossing below Kalimpong, for rafting and the Teesta

River town · best Nov – Mar · 0 nights
Gangtok
Gangtok1,650 m

Sikkim's hilltop capital, walkable, clean and good value

City · best Mar – May · Oct – Nov · 3–4 nights
Rhenock
Rhenock1,040 m

Border bazaar on the old Kalimpong–Jelep La road into Sikkim

Village · best Mar – May · Oct – Nov · 1 nights
Rongli
Rongli850 m

Old trade bazaar on the Rangpo River and the Silk Route permit gate

River town · best Mar – May · Oct – Nov · 0–1 nights
Dzongu
Dzongu1,200 m

The Lepcha reserve across the Teesta from Mangan

Valley · best Oct – Apr · 2–3 nights
Mangan and Singhik
Mangan and Singhik1,000 m

District town of cardamom, with Kanchenjunga from Singhik

Hill town · best Oct – Apr · 1 nights
Jorethang
Jorethang320 m

The Rangeet river town where South and West Sikkim change jeeps

River town · best Oct – Mar · 0–1 nights
Bumthang
Bumthang2,600 m

Four high valleys and the oldest temples in Bhutan

Valley · best Mar – May · Oct – Nov · 3 nights
Haa
Haa2,720 m

A quiet valley over Chele La, opened to tourists only in 2002

Valley · best Apr – May · Oct – Nov · 1–2 nights
Phuentsholing
Phuentsholing293 m

Bhutan's front door, one gate away from Jaigaon

City · best Oct – Mar · 1 nights
Thimphu
Thimphu2,320 m

A capital without traffic lights, under a giant golden Buddha

City · best Mar – May · Sep – Nov · 2–3 nights
Lataguri
Lataguri100 m

The base for Gorumara, with forest on both sides of the road

Village · best Oct – Mar · 2 nights
Siliguri (NJP and Bagdogra)
Siliguri (NJP and Bagdogra)122 m

Arrive at NJP or Bagdogra, then find the right jeep

City · best Oct – Mar · 0–1 nights

Start planning

Tell us the trip, we'll price it three ways

Dates, who is coming and roughly what you want to spend. A planner replies within one working day with a route and a budget, comfort and premium price, so you can see exactly what each extra rupee buys.

  • No payment to startPay only when you confirm
  • Three prices, in writingBudget, comfort, premium, line by line
  • One plannerOn WhatsApp from pickup to drop
  • Permits handledSikkim and Bhutan paperwork sorted

Get a free plan and price

Reply within one working day · no payment to start

We reply by email or WhatsApp. Read our privacy policy.

Get a free plan