Now in the hills

DarjeelingTour Plan
Jaldapara National Park
Photo: Dpdebaratipal · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

national park · Dooars and the Terai

Bengal's rhino country on the Torsa grasslands

Best Nov – Apr2 nights
Jaldapara is a 216 sq km park of grassland and riverine forest on the Torsa river, entered from Madarihat, about 125 km and 3–3.5 hours from Siliguri. It holds about 331 one-horned rhinos (2025 census), the second-largest population in India. Jeep safaris run at dawn and afternoon; the park shuts from 16 June to 15 September.

If you want to see a one-horned rhino in Bengal, come to Jaldapara. The park spreads along the Torsa river in Alipurduar district, a flat country of tall elephant grass, riverine forest of khair and sissoo, and patches of sal on higher ground. In 1985 only 14 rhinos were left here. The March 2025 census estimated 331, making Jaldapara second only to Kaziranga in India. On a February morning it is common to see several rhinos grazing in the open from a jeep.

The park entrance and the safari counter are at Madarihat, a small town on the highway between Birpara and Hasimara. Jeep safaris leave from here at dawn and in the afternoon and follow set routes through grassland to watchtowers and water. Elephants, gaur, sambar, hog deer, wild boar and peafowl are regular, and leopards live here, though they are seldom seen. Birders come for Bengal florican, which is rare and declining, and for the grassland birds.

Jaldapara also changed in 2024. The Hollong Tourist Lodge, a much-loved three-storey wooden forest bungalow deep in the park, burned down on the night of 18 June 2024 while the park was closed; no one was hurt. Its reconstruction had not been completed when we last checked. For now, stay at Madarihat, Hasimara or the Chilapata side, and treat any offer of a room 'at Hollong' with suspicion until the forest department announces it.

Don't miss

Highlights of Jaldapara National Park

Dawn rhino safari

The first jeep slot from Madarihat, around sunrise, gives the best chance of rhinos grazing in the open grassland. February to April, after the grass has been burned and before the rains, is the strongest season.

Grassland birds

Jaldapara's grasslands and river edges hold birds that are hard to see elsewhere, including the rare Bengal florican, along with hornbills, kingfishers, raptors and, in winter, migrant ducks on the Torsa.

South Khayerbari rescue centre

A short drive from Madarihat, South Khayerbari was set up in 2005 to house tigers rescued from circuses and now also cares for leopards. Visitors see the animals from viewing areas.

Chilapata next door

Across the Torsa, the Chilapata forest links Jaldapara with Buxa. Its jeep safaris and the ruins of Nalraja Garh make a good second day from Madarihat.

Totopara and the Bhutan hills

About 21 km north of Madarihat, Totopara is home to the Toto, one of India's smallest communities. A respectful visit with a local guide shows a different side of the Dooars.

Phuentsholing in an hour

From Madarihat, the Bhutan border town of Phuentsholing is roughly an hour by road through Hasimara and Jaigaon, easy to add to a Jaldapara stay.

Told in the hills

Fourteen rhinos to more than three hundred

Jaldapara was declared a sanctuary in 1941 to protect wildlife, especially the rhino, in the grasslands of the Torsa. Through the following decades the rhinos suffered from poaching for their horns, from grassland lost to farming and settlement, and from floods that changed the river's course. By 1985 the count had fallen to just 14 animals, and many thought the species would vanish from Bengal.

The recovery came from slow, unglamorous work. The forest department armed and equipped its staff, built anti-poaching camps and watchtowers, patrolled on elephant-back and by vehicle, planted fodder, maintained wallows and salt licks, and managed the grassland by controlled burning. Fringe villages were drawn in through eco-development committees. By 2022 there were 292 rhinos, and the March 2025 census estimated 331. Jaldapara has become one of India's quieter conservation successes.

Pinned to the board

Did you know

Jaldapara had only 14 rhinos in 1985; the March 2025 census estimated 331, the second-largest population in India after Kaziranga.

Jaldapara was first protected as a sanctuary in 1941 and covers about 216 sq km on the banks of the Torsa river.

The wooden Hollong Tourist Lodge inside the park burned down on 18 June 2024 while the park was closed for the monsoon; no one was hurt.

Getting there

How to reach Jaldapara National Park

Reserved carFrom Siliguri or Bagdogra, drive about 125–140 km via Sevoke, Malbazar and Birpara to Madarihat in three to three and a half hours. A reserved car costs about ₹4,000–5,000 one way, indicative 2026. From Lataguri it is about 75 km, two hours.
BusNBSTC and private buses from the Tenzing Norgay terminus in Siliguri run towards Alipurduar, Hasimara and Jaigaon via Birpara and Madarihat. Expect ₹150–250 and four hours, indicative 2026. Get off at Madarihat for the park gate and lodges.
RailMadarihat and Hasimara stations are on the Dooars line between Siliguri and Alipurduar. The Kanchankanya Express from Sealdah runs this way; Hasimara is the bigger stop. From Hasimara, an auto or car to Madarihat takes about 20–30 minutes.

Costs in Jaldapara National Parkindicative, 2026

  • Jeep safari (per jeep, up to 6)₹2,800–4,000, indicative 2026
  • Entry and guide feesoften included in safari price; check, indicative 2026
  • Elephant ride where offered₹1,000–2,000 per person, indicative 2026
  • Room at Madarihat lodge₹1,500–4,500 a night, indicative 2026
  • Car Madarihat → Totopara and back₹1,800–2,800, indicative 2026

Fares and fees change with fuel prices, season and local union rates. Check current rates before you travel.

Money-saving tip

Buy your safari ticket only from the official portal or the Madarihat counter; touts who 'help' with tickets often charge double, especially when the online system is down.

Where to stay

Sleeping in Jaldapara National Park

Madarihat, at the park gate, is the best base. WBTDC's Aranya Tourism Property, formerly the Jaldapara Tourist Lodge, is a short walk from the safari counter. Around Madarihat and along the highway there are private lodges and resorts at ₹1,500–6,000. The forest corporation runs Malangi Lodge at Hasimara beside the Kodalbasti forest and Mendabari Jungle Lodge in the Chilapata area. The Hollong lodge inside the park burned down in 2024.

On the map

Map of Jaldapara National Park, Chilapata Forest, Totopara, Buxa Tiger Reserve and Buxa Fort, LataguriIndiaChinaBhutanBangladeshJaldapara National Park1Jaldapara National ParkChilapata Forest2Chilapata ForestTotopara3TotoparaBuxa Tiger Reserve and Buxa Fort4Buxa Tiger Reserve and Buxa FortLataguri5Lataguri25 kmN
  1. 1Jaldapara National Park
  2. 2Chilapata Forest
  3. 3Totopara
  4. 4Buxa Tiger Reserve and Buxa Fort
  5. 5Lataguri
Drawn by Darjeeling Tour Plan from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Questions people ask

Jaldapara National Park: questions answered

When is Jaldapara National Park closed

Jaldapara closes every year from 16 June to 15 September for the monsoon and breeding season, and safaris have generally not run on Thursdays. It reopens on 16 September. In heavy rain, routes can close at short notice. Check current status before you travel.

How do I book Jaldapara safari

Normally through the West Bengal forest department's online booking portal, or at the counter at Madarihat. In autumn 2026 the online system was down for weeks after reopening and only counter tickets were sold, with touts reselling them at about double. Check current status before you travel and buy only from official sources.

Where should I stay for Jaldapara

Madarihat, at the park gate, is the most convenient base. WBTDC's Aranya Tourism Property, formerly the Jaldapara Tourist Lodge, is near the counter, and there are private lodges and resorts around town. Hasimara and the Chilapata side are also good. The Hollong lodge inside the park burned down in June 2024.

What happened to Hollong lodge in Jaldapara

The Hollong Tourist Lodge, a three-storey wooden bungalow inside the park, burned down on the night of 18 June 2024 while the park was closed for the monsoon. No one was hurt; a short circuit was blamed. Reconstruction had not been completed when we last checked. Check current status before you travel.

How far is Jaldapara from Siliguri and NJP

About 125 km from Siliguri and a little more from NJP and Bagdogra, around three to three and a half hours by road via Sevoke, Malbazar and Birpara. A reserved car costs about ₹4,000–5,000 one way, indicative 2026. Trains on the Dooars line stop at Madarihat and Hasimara.

What is the best month to visit Jaldapara

February to April. The forest department burns old grass in winter, so new grass is short and rhinos are easy to see. November to January is cooler but grass is tall and mornings foggy. Avoid Puja and Christmas weeks if you can. The park is closed mid-June to mid-September.

Can I see tigers in Jaldapara

No, not in the wild. Jaldapara is known for rhinos, elephants and gaur; leopards are present but rarely seen. The only tigers you are likely to see near Madarihat are rescued animals at the South Khayerbari centre.

Is Jaldapara better than Kaziranga

Kaziranga is much larger and has far more rhinos, about 2,600, along with buffalo and swamp deer. Jaldapara is smaller, closer to Siliguri, Darjeeling and Bhutan, cheaper, and less crowded. If you are already in North Bengal, Jaldapara gives an excellent rhino experience without the long trip to Assam.

How many days are enough for Jaldapara

Two nights at Madarihat allow a morning and an afternoon safari plus a half-day at Chilapata, Totopara or South Khayerbari. One night is enough for a single dawn safari if you are short of time. Add a third night for Phuentsholing or Buxa.

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