Now in the hills

DarjeelingTour Plan
Buxa Tiger Reserve and Buxa Fort
Photo: Swaroop Singha Roy · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

fort town · Dooars and the Terai

A Bhutanese fort, a freedom fighters' jail and a forest that climbs to Bhutan

Best Oct – Mar1–2 nights
Buxa Tiger Reserve covers 760 sq km of forest in Alipurduar district, from 60 m in the plains to 1,750 m at the Bhutan border. Its highlight for visitors is Buxa Fort, a Bhutanese frontier post that became a British detention camp, reached by a one-hour walk from Santalabari, with Lepchakha village half an hour above. Tigers are very rarely seen.

Buxa is the eastern end of the Bengal Dooars and the wildest part of it. The reserve stretches from flat forest near Rajabhatkhawa up through steep, wooded hills to the Bhutan border, where it joins Bhutan's Phibsoo sanctuary, with Manas to the east. Elephants move freely across this landscape. It was declared India's fifteenth tiger reserve in 1983, but tigers are now extremely rare here; come for the forest, the birds and the history, not for a big cat.

The story most visitors come for is Buxa Fort. It sits at about 867 m on the old Buxa Duar route into Bhutan, and you reach it by a walk of about 2.5–5 km, an hour or so, from the road end at Santalabari. The Bhutanese built it to guard the pass; the British took it, and in the 1930s turned it into a high-security detention camp for Indian revolutionaries. Later it sheltered Tibetan monks who fled in 1959. Today it is a set of ruined walls in the forest with a small memorial.

Half an hour above the fort, the Drukpa village of Lepchakha sits on a ridge with a small chorten and one of the best views in North Bengal: on a clear day, several rivers of the Dooars shining across the plains far below. Homestays here and at Santalabari make an overnight possible. Rajabhatkhawa, at the foot of the reserve, has the forest office, a nature interpretation centre and the start of jeep safaris.

Don't miss

Highlights of Buxa Tiger Reserve and Buxa Fort

The walk to Buxa Fort

From the road end at Santalabari, a stone path climbs through forest to the fort in about an hour. It is steady rather than steep, and porters and local guides are available. Start by 9 a.m. in the warmer months.

Lepchakha's view of the Dooars

Half an hour above the fort, the Drukpa village of Lepchakha has a small chorten on a ridge. On clear winter days you see the Dooars plains with several rivers, including the Jayanti, shining far below.

History you can stand in

The fort's ruined walls, cell blocks and memorial tell the story of the detention camp and the later Tibetan refugee centre. Read up before you go; signage is limited.

Birding across altitudes

With forest from 60 m to 1,750 m, Buxa holds at least 284 bird species. Hornbills, barbets, laughingthrushes and many migrants are possible on the walk and around Rajabhatkhawa.

Rajabhatkhawa gateway

The village at the foot of the reserve has the forest office, a nature interpretation centre and the start of jeep safaris into the plains section of the reserve.

Told in the hills

From Bhutanese pass fort to political prison

Buxa Fort guarded the Buxa Duar, one of the eighteen passes between the plains and Bhutan, on the route that connected Bhutan and Tibet with Bengal. In 1772, after the East India Company intervened in Cooch Behar, Company troops took the fort; Bhutan got it back under the peace of 1774. During the Duar War of 1864–65 a British column occupied it again, and the Treaty of Sinchula in November 1865 confirmed British control.

The British rebuilt the fort in brick, granite and lime, and from 1930 to 1937 used it as a detention camp under the Bengal Criminal Law Amendment Act, holding revolutionaries far from their supporters. It was used again as a special jail in the 1940s and early 1950s. Rabindranath Tagore wrote verses for the detainees. In 1959, monks of Drepung Monastery who had fled Tibet set up a study centre, Buxa Chogar, here; they moved to Karnataka in 1971.

Pinned to the board

Did you know

Buxa Fort was used as a detention camp for Indian revolutionaries from 1930 to 1937, and later as a special jail.

From 1959 to 1971, monks of Drepung Monastery who had fled Tibet ran a monastic study centre called Buxa Chogar at the fort.

Buxa Tiger Reserve, created in 1983 as India's fifteenth tiger reserve, records at least 284 bird species.

Getting there

How to reach Buxa Tiger Reserve and Buxa Fort

Reserved carFrom Siliguri drive about 180 km via Malbazar, Birpara, Hasimara and Rajabhatkhawa to Santalabari, four and a half to five hours. From Madarihat it is about 2 hours, and from Alipurduar about 30 km, 1 hour. A reserved car from Siliguri costs ₹5,500–7,000, indicative 2026.
Rail and carAlipurduar Junction is the nearest major station, with trains from Siliguri and Kolkata including the Kanchankanya Express. Rajabhatkhawa station is also on the line. From Alipurduar, take a car to Santalabari for about ₹1,200–2,000, indicative 2026.
On footFrom Santalabari, walk to Buxa Fort in about an hour on a stone and earth path, and on to Lepchakha in another half hour. A longer trail continues through the forest to Jayanti, about 13 km, with a guide.

Costs in Buxa Tiger Reserve and Buxa Fortindicative, 2026

  • Forest entry for the Buxa Fort walk₹50–200 per person, indicative 2026
  • Local guide to the fort and Lepchakha₹500–1,000 per group, indicative 2026
  • Porter for luggage to Lepchakha₹300–600 per load, indicative 2026
  • Homestay with meals₹1,500–2,500 per person a night, indicative 2026
  • Car Alipurduar → Santalabari₹1,200–2,000, indicative 2026

Fares and fees change with fuel prices, season and local union rates. Check current rates before you travel.

Money-saving tip

Take the train to Alipurduar, a shared or hired car to Santalabari, and stay a night at a Lepchakha homestay with meals; it costs less than one night at a Dooars resort.

Where to stay

Sleeping in Buxa Tiger Reserve and Buxa Fort

Santalabari, at the start of the walk, and Lepchakha above the fort have simple homestays with shared or basic attached bathrooms and home-cooked meals, roughly ₹1,500–2,500 per person including food, indicative 2026. Rajabhatkhawa and Jayanti have more lodges and forest-department accommodation. Alipurduar town, an hour away, has standard hotels. Book homestays through local contacts or a trusted agent.

On the map

Map of Buxa Tiger Reserve and Buxa Fort, Jayanti, Chilapata Forest, Jaldapara National ParkIndiaChinaBhutanBangladeshBuxa Tiger Reserve and Buxa Fort1Buxa Tiger Reserve and Buxa FortJayanti2JayantiChilapata Forest3Chilapata ForestJaldapara National Park4Jaldapara National Park20 kmN
  1. 1Buxa Tiger Reserve and Buxa Fort
  2. 2Jayanti
  3. 3Chilapata Forest
  4. 4Jaldapara National Park
Drawn by Darjeeling Tour Plan from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Questions people ask

Buxa Tiger Reserve and Buxa Fort: questions answered

How do I reach Buxa Fort from Siliguri

Drive about 180 km via Malbazar, Birpara, Hasimara and Rajabhatkhawa to Santalabari, four and a half to five hours, then walk about an hour to the fort. Alternatively, take a train to Alipurduar and a car to Santalabari, about an hour. A reserved car from Siliguri costs ₹5,500–7,000, indicative 2026.

How long is the Buxa Fort trek

From Santalabari the walk to the fort takes about an hour up and 45 minutes down. Continuing to Lepchakha adds about 30 minutes each way. The whole outing, with time at the fort and village, takes three to five hours. A longer trail continues to Jayanti, about 13 km, with a guide.

Is Buxa Tiger Reserve worth visiting

Yes, for forest, birds, history and walking, especially Buxa Fort and Lepchakha. It is not the place for easy big-mammal sightings, and tigers are extremely rare. If you want rhinos and gaur, pair Buxa with Jaldapara, about two hours away.

When is Buxa Tiger Reserve closed

Like other Dooars protected areas, Buxa closes to visitors from 16 June to 15 September for the monsoon and breeding season. Some areas may also close at short notice. Check current status before you travel.

Where should I stay for Buxa Fort

For the fort and views, stay in a homestay at Santalabari or Lepchakha. For more comfort and safaris, stay at Jayanti or Rajabhatkhawa. Alipurduar town, an hour away, has standard hotels. Book homestays in advance through local contacts.

Is Buxa Fort suitable for children and seniors

Children of about seven and up who walk regularly usually manage the hour-long climb. Seniors who are fit and walk daily can do it slowly; porters carry bags. People with heart or knee problems should think carefully, as the path is steady uphill and uneven.

Is there mobile network at Buxa Fort and Lepchakha

Signal is patchy on the trail and at Lepchakha, sometimes available on one network on the ridge. Electricity can be unreliable. Download what you need, carry a power bank and torch, and tell family you may be offline.

What is the history of Buxa Fort

A Bhutanese fort guarding the Buxa Duar pass, it was captured by the East India Company in 1772, returned in 1774, retaken in the Duar War of 1864–65 and kept under the Treaty of Sinchula. The British used it as a detention camp from 1930 to 1937 and later as a jail. Tibetan monks used it from 1959 to 1971.

Can foreigners visit Buxa

Yes. Foreign visitors can visit Buxa Tiger Reserve and Buxa Fort with the normal forest entry ticket and their passport. The area is close to the Bhutan border, so carry ID and follow instructions at checkpoints. Check current status before you travel.

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