Punakha Drubchen and Tshechu
Feb–Mar, around the 1st lunar month (lunar calendar)
The Punakha Drubchen has its roots in the wars of the Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, who unified Bhutan in the 17th century. Tibetan armies invaded several times, and in one campaign they came to take back a sacred relic, the Rangjung Kharsapani, which the Zhabdrung had brought from Tibet. Bhutanese tradition tells how the Zhabdrung tricked the invaders into believing he had thrown the relic into the river, and they withdrew. The festival commemorates that victory.
Its most striking part is the pazap, men from Punakha's villages who dress as the militia of the time, in traditional battle costume with swords and shields, and re-enact the battle with shouts and war dances in the dzong. There is also a dramatic recreation of the throwing of the relic into the Mo Chhu. Masked dances and rituals continue over several days. The Punakha Tshechu, a newer festival, follows directly afterwards, with cham dances and the display of a thongdrel.
Punakha is warm in February and March, around 15–22 °C by day, and the jacarandas around the dzong may be starting to flower. Crowds are smaller than at Paro or Thimphu, though local attendance is huge. Combine the festival with Phobjikha in the last weeks of crane season, or with Paro and Thimphu. Book Punakha hotels early, as the valley has fewer rooms than Paro.
How to do it well
- Check the official calendar; the Drubchen and Tshechu dates move with the lunar year and can fall in February or March.
- Stand well back during the pazap re-enactment; the militia move fast and the crowd surges.
- Combine with Phobjikha for the last of the black-necked cranes, which leave in mid-February.
Questions people ask
Good to know
What is the Punakha Drubchen
A festival at Punakha Dzong that commemorates the Zhabdrung's 17th-century victory over an invading Tibetan army. Its highlight is the pazap, local men dressed as the militia of the time who re-enact the battle in traditional costume. It is followed by the Punakha Tshechu, with masked dances and a thongdrel.
When is the Punakha festival held
Usually in February or March, around the first month of the Bhutanese lunar calendar. The Drubchen comes first and the Punakha Tshechu follows. Western dates change every year, so check the Department of Tourism's festival calendar before booking, and reserve Punakha hotels early.
Is the Punakha festival less crowded than Paro
With visitors, generally yes, though Bhutanese attendance is large. Punakha has fewer hotels than Paro, so rooms still sell out. The warmer weather in February and March makes it a pleasant festival to attend, and the pazap re-enactment is unique to Punakha.
What is the story of the relic at the Punakha Drubchen
Bhutanese tradition says a Tibetan army came to recover a sacred relic, the Rangjung Kharsapani, that the Zhabdrung had brought from Tibet. He is said to have pretended to throw it into the Mo Chhu, and the invaders left. The festival recreates this scene. It is told as tradition.
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