Inside Punakha Dzong, the palace of great bliss

Its full name, Pungthang Dechen Phodrang, means 'palace of great happiness'. The Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal built it in 1637–38 at the point where the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu join. It is 180 m long, six storeys high and arranged around three courtyards: the first for administration, the second and third for the monk body. The Je Khenpo and the central monastic body spend the winter here. It was the seat of government until 1955, and Ugyen Wangchuck was enthroned here as the first hereditary king in 1907.

The dzong has lived through fire and flood. A major fire struck in 1986, and glacial lake outburst floods coming down the Pho Chhu damaged it several times, most seriously in 1994, when 23 people died in the valley. Restoration was completed in the following years. Inside the inner courtyard is the Machey Lhakhang, holding the embalmed body of the Zhabdrung; it is closed to visitors. The great assembly hall, with its gilded statues and painted pillars, is usually open.

Enter by the covered cantilever bridge over the Mo Chhu and climb the steep wooden stair at the gate, which can be drawn up in times of war. Mornings are best for light and temperature. In March and April the jacaranda trees around the walls flower lilac. Wear long sleeves and long trousers, no caps. Entry about Nu 500, indicative 2026. Photography is allowed in courtyards but not inside temples.