Told in the hills
The high pastures above the tree line
Above Lachen the land belongs as much to herds as to people. Each summer, Lachenpa and Dokpa families move yak and sheep up to grazing grounds around Thangu and the plateau beyond, and bring them down as snow returns. The Lachen Dzumsa, the village council, organises these seasonal movements as part of its traditional duties.
Wikipedia notes that even in June and July daytime temperatures around Thangu range only from about 4 to 12 °C. The short summer brings a burst of alpine flowers to the meadows, primulas, poppies and other high-altitude plants, which botanists have studied since Joseph Hooker passed through the upper Lachen valley in 1849 on his way to the Kongra Lama pass.
Because the border with Tibet is so close, the area is also a military zone, which is why Thangu has an army presence, medical post and checkpost. The two worlds, herding and soldiering, sit side by side. Respect both: give herds right of way on the road, and never photograph army installations.
Pinned to the board
Did you know
Thangu lies roughly 30 km north of Lachen and is the last stop with food before Gurudongmar Lake.
The Mangan district administration describes Thangu as the base for treks to Gurudongmar and to Cho Lhamu, the source of the Teesta.
Foreign nationals with a Restricted Area Permit can usually travel up the Lachen valley as far as Thangu, but not beyond.





