Losoong and the Phodong chaam
Dec, 28th–29th day of the 10th Tibetan month, then Losoong
Losoong falls on the first day of the eleventh month of the Tibetan calendar, usually in December, and marks the end of the harvest. It is the traditional new year of the Bhutias, adapted from the rituals of Losar, and Lepchas celebrate it as Namsoong. Families gather, cook and visit friends, and archery and other competitions are held in some places.
Before Losoong, Phodong Monastery holds its annual chaam on the 28th and 29th days of the tenth Tibetan month. Monks in masks and brocade costumes perform sacred dances in the courtyard to drums, cymbals and long horns, depicting stories linked to Guru Padmasambhava and the defeat of evil. Rumtek holds similar dances.
Losoong celebrations often include the burning of an effigy representing a demon king, symbolising the destruction of evil, after offerings of chi, the fermented millet drink, to the gods. Phodong is about 38 km from Gangtok, needs no permit for Indians and is easy to visit for a day. December is dry and clear, though cold in the shade.
How to do it well
- Check the chaam dates each year; they follow the Tibetan calendar.
- Arrive by mid-morning for a place around the Phodong courtyard.
- Do not use flash or walk into the dance area during the chaam.
Questions people ask
Good to know
When is Losoong celebrated in Sikkim
Losoong falls on the first day of the eleventh month of the Tibetan lunar calendar, usually in December. The Phodong Monastery chaam takes place on the 28th and 29th days of the tenth month, just before it. Exact dates change each year, so check once the calendar is published.
Where can I see the Losoong chaam dances
Phodong Monastery, about 38 km north of Gangtok, holds its annual chaam before Losoong, and Rumtek Monastery near Gangtok holds similar dances. Phodong is quieter and needs no permit for Indian citizens. Arrive early on the main day for a good view.
What is the difference between Losoong and Namsoong
They are the same harvest new-year festival seen from two communities. Bhutias call it Losoong, and Lepchas celebrate it as Namsoong. Both mark the end of the harvest season in December, with family gatherings, food, prayers and, in some places, competitions and cultural programmes.
Is December a good time to visit Phodong
Yes. December is dry and clear, with mild sunny days and cold mornings at Phodong, about 1,400 m. The chaam before Losoong is a highlight. It is also snow season further north, so you can combine Phodong with a snow trip to Lachung if permits and roads allow.