Photo: Myself (Ambuj Saxena) · Public domain, Wikimedia Commons

Baba Harbhajan Singh MandirHeight above mean sea level 4,000 m

viewpoint · Gangtok and East Sikkim

The Army shrine to a soldier who died near Nathu La in 1968

Best Apr – May · Oct – Nov0 (day trip) nights

Baba Mandir is an Army-run shrine at about 4,000 m to Harbhajan Singh, a Punjab Regiment soldier who died near Nathu La in October 1968. The present temple dates from 1982. It lies about 15–20 km beyond Tsomgo Lake and is usually added to the Tsomgo day trip. Indian nationals only, on a Protected Area Permit.

Baba Mandir is a small, neat shrine on the high road between Tsomgo Lake and Kupup, kept by the Indian Army. It honours Harbhajan Singh, a young sepoy of the Punjab Regiment who died near Nathu La in 1968. Soldiers call him Baba, and many believe he still watches over the border. You do not need to share that belief to find the place moving: a soldier's room, kept as if he had stepped out, at 4,000 m.

Most visitors come as part of the Tsomgo day from Gangtok, either on the way to Nathu La or as the last stop on the way back. A visit takes 20 to 40 minutes. Shoes come off at the shrine, heads are covered, and the soldiers on duty expect quiet. Inside you will see his photograph, uniform and personal things, and offerings left by visitors, including bottles of water that some believe gain healing power.

Baba Mandir lies beyond Tsomgo, so it is open to Indian nationals only, on the same Protected Area Permit that covers the lake. Foreign nationals are generally not allowed past Tsomgo. Rules, timings and road status change with weather and Army needs, especially in winter, when snow can close the road beyond Tsomgo for a day or more. We keep a spare day in every Gangtok plan for exactly this reason, and we brief families on the cold and the height before they set out. Check current status before you travel.

Don't miss

Highlights of Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir

Baba's room, kept as he left it

Inside the shrine complex is a room with his bed, portrait, uniform, shoes and stick, looked after by the soldiers posted here. Remove your shoes, cover your head and keep your voice low. Photography rules are set by the Army on duty; ask before you lift a phone.

A shrine honoured by every faith

Harbhajan Singh was a Sikh, but the shrine draws soldiers and visitors of every faith, Hindu, Buddhist and Sikh among them. Offerings range from incense to bottles of water. It is a good place to see how Army life on this frontier mixes faith, duty and plain homesickness.

The high road between Tsomgo and Kupup

The drive from Tsomgo Lake climbs through bare alpine slopes where yaks graze in summer and snow lies deep in winter. Baba Mandir sits where the road to Kupup and the Silk Route branches off. On a clear day the ridges of the Dongkya Range fill the skyline.

An easy add-on to the Tsomgo day

Baba Mandir adds about 1.5 hours to a Tsomgo trip and is usually priced into the standard car at ₹4,500–6,500 per vehicle, indicative 2026. With Nathu La added, the full day costs ₹6,500–9,000. Check current status before you travel.

The old bunker shrine on the Silk Route

An older shrine stands at the site of his bunker, on the high road towards Nathang. Silk Route trips between Kupup and Zuluk often stop there. It is quieter than the main temple and gives a sense of how remote the posts were in 1968.

Quick facts

Best monthsApr – May, Oct – Nov
Nights we suggest0 (day trip from Gangtok)
Nearest airportBagdogra (IXB), ≈ 180 km
From Gangtok≈ 55–60 km · 2.5–3 h
Altitude≈ 4,000 m
PermitPAP via a registered agent; Indian nationals only
Known forArmy shrine, soldier's legend, Tsomgo–Nathu La day

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Told in the hills

The soldier, and the legend soldiers tell

The facts first. Harbhajan Singh was born on 30 August 1946 in a Sikh family, in a village in Punjab that is now in Pakistan. He studied at DAV High School in Patti and enlisted in the Punjab Regiment. On 4 October 1968, aged 22, he died near Nathu La. The board beside his shrine says he fell into a nullah, a fast mountain stream, while escorting a mule column between Tuku La and Dongchui La. His unit built a shrine for him, and the present temple was built in 1982.

Then the legend, which soldiers here tell with real conviction. Legend holds that a comrade dreamed of Harbhajan Singh showing where his body lay, and that he asked for a shrine. Soldiers believe his spirit still guards the border, warning them in dreams of danger. For years, published accounts said his belongings travelled home to Punjab by train each year, with a berth reserved in his name. Whether you believe it or not, the faith it inspires in men posted at 4,000 m is real.

Pinned to the board

Did you know

Harbhajan Singh was 22 when he died near Nathu La on 4 October 1968, while serving with the Punjab Regiment.

The present Baba Mandir was built in November 1982 at the junction of the Kupup road and the trail to Menmecho Lake; an older shrine stands at the site of his bunker.

Plus Minus (2018), a short film loosely based on his life, won Best Short Film at the 64th Filmfare Awards.

Things to do

Four ways to spend a day in Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir

30–40 minutes Visiting the shrine and Baba's room Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir · Free (permit and car extra)

20 minutes at the shrine, plus the drive Harbhajan Singh: the life and the legend Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir · Free

20–30 minutes The old bunker shrine on the road to Nathang Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir · Free (Silk Route permit and car extra)

Full day from Gangtok Baba Mandir in the snow, December to March Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir · ₹4,500–6,500 per car with Tsomgo, indic…

Getting there

How to reach Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir

Shared jeepShared seats on the Tsomgo–Baba Mandir tour cost about ₹800–1,300 a person from Gangtok, indicative 2026, including permit handling. Cars leave around 7–8 am and return by mid-afternoon. Hand in your photos and ID copy the evening before. Check current status before you travel.

Reserved carA Gangtok-registered car for Tsomgo and Baba Mandir costs ₹4,500–6,500 per vehicle for up to five people; with Nathu La, ₹6,500–9,000, indicative 2026. Silk Route cars from Zuluk also pass close by on the way to Gangtok. Check current status before you travel.

Rail / AirThe nearest airport is Bagdogra (IXB) and the nearest railhead is New Jalpaiguri (NJP), both about 125 km from Gangtok. Pakyong Airport has no scheduled flights as of 2026. Sleep at least one night in Gangtok before driving up to 4,000 m.

Costs in Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandirindicative, 2026

Reserved car, Tsomgo + Baba Mandir₹4,500–6,500 per vehicle
Reserved car, with Nathu La added₹6,500–9,000 per vehicle
Shared seat, Tsomgo–Baba Mandir tour₹800–1,300 a person
Protected Area Permit via agent≈ ₹200 a person
Entry to the shrineFree

Fares and fees change with fuel prices, season and local union rates. Check current rates before you travel.

Money-saving tip

Baba Mandir is free and usually included in the Tsomgo car, so check that your quote names it; some agents quote Tsomgo only and charge ₹500–1,000 more to add it later.

Where to stay

Sleeping in Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir

There is no tourist accommodation at Baba Mandir; it is a day visit from Gangtok, or a stop on the Silk Route between Gangtok and Zuluk. In Gangtok, budget travellers do well at Hotel Sonam Delek on Tibet Road or Mintokling Guest House on Bhanu Path, both close to MG Marg for the early start. Netuk House and Royal Plaza are comfortable middle-range choices, and Elgin Nor-Khill or Taj Guras Kutir suit a bigger budget. On the Silk Route, Indian travellers sleep in registered village homestays at Zuluk, around 2,900 m, which is far kinder to the body than sleeping higher.

On the map

Drawn by Darjeeling Tour Plan from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Next stations

Near Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir

All of Gangtok

Tsomgo Lake3,753 m

A sacred glacial lake at 3,753 m, 40 km above Gangtok

Lake · best Apr – May · Oct – Nov · 0 (day trip) nights

Nathu La4,310 m

The India–China border pass at 4,310 m, open to Indians Wed–Sun

Pass · best Apr – May · Oct – Nov · 0 (day trip) nights

Kupup3,980 m

Elephant Lake, the Yak Golf Course and the old road to Jelep La

Valley · best Apr – May · Oct – Nov · 0 (stop on the Silk Route) nights

Nathang Valley4,000 m

A yak herders' valley at about 4,000 m, and the 1888 Gnathang fight

Valley · best Apr – May · Oct – Nov · 0–1 nights

Questions people ask

Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir: questions answered

How far is Baba Mandir from Gangtok

Baba Mandir is about 55–60 km from Gangtok, roughly 15–20 km beyond Tsomgo Lake, and the drive takes 2.5 to 3 hours each way. Most people visit it with Tsomgo on one day, back in Gangtok by mid-afternoon, or add Nathu La and return by about 4 or 5 pm. Times stretch after snow or landslides.

Do we need a permit for Baba Mandir

Yes. Baba Mandir lies inside the protected area beyond Tsomgo, so Indian nationals need a Protected Area Permit, the same one that covers Tsomgo. A registered Gangtok agent arranges it with two passport photos and a copy of a photo ID per person, at about ₹200 a person. Check current status before you travel.

Can foreigners visit Baba Mandir

Generally no. Foreign nationals may visit Tsomgo Lake on a day permit through a registered agent, usually in a group of two or more, but they are not normally allowed beyond the lake, which puts Baba Mandir and Nathu La off limits. OCI card holders are treated as foreign nationals for these permits. Check current status before you travel.

Who was Baba Harbhajan Singh

Harbhajan Singh was a sepoy of the Punjab Regiment, born in 1946, who died near Nathu La on 4 October 1968, aged 22, after falling into a stream while escorting a mule column. Soldiers call him Baba, and a living Army legend holds that his spirit still guards the border. The shrine on the Tsomgo–Kupup road honours him.

Is Baba Mandir open on Monday and Tuesday

Usually yes, when the road is open. The Monday and Tuesday closure applies to Nathu La, not to Tsomgo and Baba Mandir, which are generally permitted on most days. On those days the standard trip is Tsomgo and Baba Mandir only. Snow, landslides and Army needs can close the road on any day, so check current status before you travel.

How long should we spend at Baba Mandir

About 30 to 40 minutes is right. That gives time to visit the shrine and Baba's room, have a hot drink and look at the view, without staying too long at about 4,000 m. If you are also doing Nathu La, visit Baba Mandir on the way down, when the hardest climb of the day is behind you.

Is Baba Mandir suitable for elderly visitors

Yes, with care. The shrine is close to the road, with only a short walk and a few steps. The main issues are cold and altitude at about 4,000 m. Let seniors rest in the car first, keep them warm, and limit the visit to half an hour. Those with heart or lung problems should consult a doctor before the trip.

Is there food at Baba Mandir

Simple snacks and hot drinks are usually available near the shrine or at stalls along the Tsomgo road, but choice is limited. Eat a light breakfast in Gangtok, carry dry snacks and water, and have momos, Maggi or thukpa at the Tsomgo stalls, where a plate costs about ₹80–150, indicative 2026. Avoid heavy meals at altitude.

Can we go from Baba Mandir to Zuluk

Yes, for Indian nationals with a Silk Route permit. From near Baba Mandir a road branches to Kupup, then over the high ground past Nathang to Zuluk, about 2.5 to 3.5 hours with stops. It is a popular way to start a Silk Route trip from Gangtok. Arrange the permit and car through a Gangtok agent, and check current status before you travel.