Baba Mandir in the snow, December to March

From December to March, snow falls regularly above Tsomgo, and the slopes around Baba Mandir turn white for weeks. When the road has been cleared and the sky is blue, the drive past the frozen lake to the shrine is something people remember for years. Snow banks can stand higher than the car, and the frozen streams beside the road look like poured glass. Mornings after a fresh fall, with the sun out, are the best of all.

The catch is closures. After heavy snow the road beyond Tsomgo, or even before it, can shut for a day or longer until it is cleared, and Nathu La is closed more often than open in some weeks. Many winter visitors reach Tsomgo only. Ask your agent the evening before what is being permitted, and keep two spare days in Gangtok. Winter rates in Gangtok hotels are often lower, so the extra nights cost less than you might fear. Check current status before you travel.

Dress for well below freezing: thermals, a down or heavy jacket, waterproof boots, gloves, cap and sunglasses for the glare. Boots and coats can be hired on the way up for ₹100–300. Cars need chains on some days, and drivers go slowly; do not push them. Children and seniors feel the cold and altitude fastest, so keep their time outside short and a thermos of hot water in the car.