Now in the hills

DarjeelingTour Plan

spiritual · Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir, Gangtok

Visiting the shrine and Baba's room

30–40 minutesMid-morning, Apr–May and Oct–NovFree (permit and car extra)
Visiting the shrine and Baba's room
Photo: Myself (Ambuj Saxena) · Public domain, Wikimedia Commons
A quiet half hour at the temple the Army keeps for Harbhajan Singh: the shrine, his room with bed, uniform and boots, and the offerings left by soldiers and visitors. Simple rules apply: shoes off, head covered, voices low.

The car parks on the road beside the shrine. Shoes come off at the entrance, and a scarf, cap or handkerchief should cover your head, as at any gurdwara. Inside, the main hall holds his portrait and offerings: incense, flowers, sweets, and many bottles of water. A separate room is kept as his quarters, with a bed, uniform, shoes and stick. Soldiers on duty look after it and keep it in order.

Many visitors leave a bottle of water at the shrine and collect it on the way back, believing it gains healing power. That is a belief, not a fact, and no one will mind whether you join in. What you will notice is how carefully the soldiers keep the place, and how seriously they take it. A short prayer, a bow of the head or simply a quiet moment are all welcome.

Keep the visit to 30 or 40 minutes. You are at about 4,000 m, and the cold floor and thin air tire people quickly. Photography rules are set on the day by the soldiers on duty, so ask first. There may be a box for donations; give only if you wish. Before you leave, walk to the edge of the car park and look at the bare ridges where he served.

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Questions people ask

Good to know

What is the dress code at Baba Mandir

Remove your shoes at the entrance and cover your head with a scarf, cap or handkerchief, as at a gurdwara. There is no strict rule on clothing beyond modesty, and in this cold you will be wrapped up anyway. Thick socks help, because the floor is icy at about 4,000 m. Keep your voice low; soldiers on duty may remind visitors.

Why do people leave water bottles at Baba Mandir

By a belief common among visitors and soldiers, water left at the shrine for a while gains healing power, so people leave a bottle on the way to Nathu La and collect it on the way back. It is a matter of faith, not medicine. Join in if you wish, and take the empty bottle back to Gangtok rather than leaving plastic behind.

Can we take photographs inside Baba Mandir

That depends on the soldiers on duty that day. Photos of the exterior and the mountains are usually fine. Inside the shrine and Baba's room, some days photography is allowed and some days it is not. Always ask first, keep the flash off and never photograph soldiers or military buildings without permission. Signs and instructions on the spot override anything you read online.

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