Now in the hills

DarjeelingTour Plan
Tsomgo Lake
Photo: Indrajit Das · CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

lake · Gangtok and East Sikkim

A sacred glacial lake at 3,753 m, 40 km above Gangtok

Best Apr – May · Oct – Nov0 (day trip) nights
Tsomgo, also called Changu, is a glacial lake at 3,753 m, about 40 km and 2 hours from Gangtok on the Nathu La road. You need a Protected Area Permit arranged by a registered agent. It is a day trip only, usually paired with Baba Mandir, and it is frozen or half-frozen from about January to March.

Tsomgo is the trip almost everyone in Gangtok takes, and for good reason. In two hours the road climbs from 1,650 m to 3,753 m, through cloud forest, then fir and rhododendron, then bare slopes with snow on them for half the year. The lake sits in a bowl of steep hills, about 836 m long and 427 m wide. Locals and drivers call it Changu. It is held sacred by Sikkimese Buddhists and Hindus alike, and there is a small Shiva temple on its bank.

It is not a quiet spot at midday. Shared and reserved cars arrive from Gangtok between 9 and 11 am, the yak handlers line the shore, and tea stalls sell Maggi, momos and hot coffee. Come early and walk to the far side of the lake and it changes. You hear the wind, see ruddy shelduck on the water and, from mid-May, find primulas, irises and poppies in the grass along the shore.

The honest picture: this is a day trip into a restricted border zone, at a height where many people feel breathless. You cannot stay overnight. You cannot drive yourself in a car registered outside Sikkim. You need a permit and a Gangtok-registered vehicle. Plan it as one long morning, go slowly once you are out of the car, and keep the afternoon in Gangtok free in case the road is closed for snow or a landslide.

Don't miss

Highlights of Tsomgo Lake

The frozen lake from January to March

In deep winter the lake freezes over, partly or fully, and snow lines the road. It is a striking sight, but the road can shut for a day or two after heavy snowfall. Keep a spare day in Gangtok if seeing the ice is the point of your trip.

Alpine flowers after mid-May

Once the snow melts, the shore and slopes fill with rhododendrons, primulas, blue and yellow poppies and irises. Late May and early June are the best weeks. Walk a few hundred metres away from the stalls and you will have them almost to yourself.

Yak rides along the shore

Decorated yaks and their handlers wait by the lake for short rides of 10 to 20 minutes. Agree the price and the route before you get on. Children love it, but hold on firmly: yaks are calm animals, yet the ground is uneven and wet.

The road through Kyongnosla

The last 15 km before the lake run through the Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary. Watch for waterfalls in summer, frozen ones in winter, and rhododendron in April and May. Ask your driver to stop at a safe bend rather than on a narrow stretch.

Baba Mandir on the same day

Most cars continue 15 to 20 km beyond the lake to the Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir, an Army-run shrine to a soldier who died here in 1968. It adds about 1.5 hours and is usually priced into the Tsomgo day car. Indian nationals only beyond the lake.

Hot tea at 3,753 m

The row of stalls by the car park sells tea, coffee, Maggi, momos and thukpa. A plate of momos runs about ₹80–150. Eat something light and warm; it helps with the cold, and the stalls are the only toilets for kilometres.

Told in the hills

A sacred lake on the old road to Tibet

Long before tourist jeeps, Tsomgo was a halt on the trade path from Gangtok to Tibet. The route climbed past the lake to Sherathang and over Nathu La into the Chumbi Valley, and mule trains carried cloth, grain and tools north while wool came back south. The road was made motorable between 1954 and 1958, and Jawaharlal Nehru formally opened it in September 1958 in the presence of the Chogyal. That road is the one your car uses today, widened and repaired many times since.

The lake itself has always been more than a halt. Its name is usually explained as tso, lake, and mgo, head, giving the sense of a lake at the source. Local tradition holds that Buddhist monks once read the shifting colours of its water to foretell the year ahead. Jhakris, the faith healers of Sikkim, are said to gather on its shore at Guru Purnima to draw on the healing power believed to lie in the water. Respect it as a sacred place: no litter, no coins thrown in.

Pinned to the board

Did you know

Tsomgo Lake is about 836 m long and 427 m wide, with a reported maximum depth of 15 m.

India Post released a commemorative stamp featuring Tsomgo Lake on 6 November 2006.

The Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary, about 31 sq km of rhododendron, juniper and silver fir, covers the slopes around the road to the lake.

Getting there

How to reach Tsomgo Lake

Shared jeepGangtok agents sell shared seats on Tsomgo tours, ₹800–1,300 a person including the permit handling, indicative 2026. Cars leave between 7 and 8 am from near MG Marg and return by mid-afternoon. Hand over ID copies and photos the day before. Check current status before you travel.
Reserved carA Gangtok-registered Bolero, Scorpio or Xylo for Tsomgo and Baba Mandir costs ₹4,500–6,500 per vehicle, indicative 2026, and takes up to five people. Add Nathu La and it rises to ₹6,500–9,000. Outside cars are not allowed past the check post. Check current status before you travel.
Rail / AirThe nearest airport is Bagdogra (IXB) and the nearest railhead is New Jalpaiguri (NJP), both about 125 km from Gangtok. Pakyong Airport has no scheduled flights as of 2026. Reach Gangtok first, sleep a night there, and do Tsomgo the next morning. Check current status before you travel.

Costs in Tsomgo Lakeindicative, 2026

  • Shared seat, Tsomgo tour from Gangtok₹800–1,300 a person
  • Reserved car, Tsomgo + Baba Mandir₹4,500–6,500 per vehicle
  • Protected Area Permit via agent≈ ₹200 a person
  • Yak ride at the lake₹300–600
  • Coat, gloves and boots hire₹100–300
  • Momos or Maggi at the lake stalls₹80–150 a plate

Fares and fees change with fuel prices, season and local union rates. Check current rates before you travel.

Money-saving tip

Hire boots and a coat from the shops on the way up only if you visit between December and April; from May to November a warm jacket of your own is enough, and you save ₹200–300 a head.

Where to stay

Sleeping in Tsomgo Lake

Tourists cannot stay overnight at Tsomgo; the permit is for a day visit, so you sleep in Gangtok and come back the same afternoon. Pick a hotel close to MG Marg so the early pick-up is easy. On a budget, Hotel Sonam Delek on Tibet Road and Mintokling Guest House on Bhanu Path are long-running, simple choices. In the middle range, Netuk House is a family-run heritage house on Tibet Road. For more comfort, Elgin Nor-Khill, built in 1932 as a royal guest house, sits on Paljor Stadium Road. Ask your hotel desk to arrange the permit; most do it daily.

On the map

Map of Tsomgo Lake, Gangtok, Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir, Nathu La, KupupIndiaChinaBhutanTsomgo Lake1Tsomgo LakeGangtok2GangtokBaba Harbhajan Singh Mandir3Baba Harbhajan Singh MandirNathu La4Nathu LaKupup5Kupup20 kmN
  1. 1Tsomgo Lake
  2. 2Gangtok
  3. 3Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir
  4. 4Nathu La
  5. 5Kupup
Drawn by Darjeeling Tour Plan from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Questions people ask

Tsomgo Lake: questions answered

Do Indians need a permit for Tsomgo Lake

Yes. Indian nationals need a Protected Area Permit for Tsomgo, arranged through a registered Gangtok travel agent or your hotel. Give them two passport-size photos and a copy of a photo ID per person, usually the evening before. The permit costs about ₹200 a person through an agent and is checked at a post on the way up. Check current status before you travel.

Can foreigners visit Tsomgo Lake

Yes. Foreign nationals with a valid Restricted Area Permit for Sikkim can visit Tsomgo on a day Protected Area Permit arranged by a registered travel agent, usually in a group of two or more. Foreigners are not allowed beyond the lake to Nathu La, and the Silk Route at Zuluk and Kupup is closed to them. Check current status before you travel.

When is Tsomgo Lake frozen

The lake is usually frozen, fully or in part, from about January to March, and ice can linger into April and sometimes May. December brings the first hard frosts. If ice is what you want, February is the most reliable month, but heavy snow can close the road for a day or more. Keep a spare day in Gangtok and check current status before you travel.

How far is Tsomgo Lake from Gangtok

Tsomgo is about 40 km from Gangtok on the Nathu La road, a drive of about 2 hours each way. Cars leave between 7 and 8 am and are back by early to mid-afternoon, including Baba Mandir. With Nathu La added, plan on a full day, back by around 4 or 5 pm. Times stretch after snowfall or landslides.

How much does a Tsomgo Lake trip cost from Gangtok

A shared seat on a Tsomgo tour costs about ₹800–1,300 a person. A reserved car for Tsomgo and Baba Mandir costs ₹4,500–6,500 per vehicle for up to five people, rising to ₹6,500–9,000 with Nathu La. Add about ₹200 a person for the permit and ₹100–300 for boot and coat hire in winter. All indicative 2026.

Is altitude sickness a risk at Tsomgo Lake

Yes, it can be. At 3,753 m, Tsomgo is more than 2,000 m above Gangtok, and you get there in two hours. Mild headache and breathlessness are common. Walk slowly, drink water, avoid alcohol the night before and limit your stay to 60–90 minutes. Anyone with heart or lung problems, or who is pregnant, should consult a doctor first.

Can we stay overnight at Tsomgo Lake

No. Tourist permits for Tsomgo are for a day visit, and there are no hotels for tourists at the lake. Everyone returns to Gangtok the same afternoon. If you want to sleep in the high country, the Silk Route via Kupup to Zuluk is an option for Indian nationals, with homestays at Zuluk around 2,900 m. Check current status before you travel.

Can I take my own car to Tsomgo Lake

Generally no. Vehicles registered outside Sikkim are not normally permitted past the check post on the Tsomgo road, and tourist permits are issued with a Gangtok-registered vehicle and driver. Leave your own car at the hotel in Gangtok and hire a local car or shared seat through an agent. Rules can change, so check current status before you travel.

Is Tsomgo Lake good for children

Yes, for most children over five, if you keep the visit short. Dress them in layers, gloves and a cap, keep them hydrated and watch for headache, vomiting or unusual tiredness, which are signs to head down at once. Children under five can usually visit Tsomgo, but many families keep the stay to about 45 minutes and skip Nathu La.

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