Photo: Rangan Datta Wiki · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

KupupHeight above mean sea level 3,980 m

valley · Gangtok and East Sikkim

Elephant Lake, the Yak Golf Course and the old road to Jelep La

Best Apr – May · Oct – Nov0 (stop on the Silk Route) nights

Kupup is a high Army hamlet at about 3,980 m on the Silk Route, roughly 3 hours from Gangtok via Tsomgo and Baba Mandir. It is known for Elephant Lake (Bitang Tso), the Army's Yak Golf Course, listed by Guinness as the world's highest, and views towards Jelep La. Indian nationals only, on a Silk Route permit.

Kupup sits in a wide, open valley below the Dongkya Range, the ridge that marks the border with Tibet. It is a hamlet of Army camps, a few houses and yak pasture, at about 3,980 m. For most travellers it is a stop, not a stay: the high point of the drive between Gangtok and Zuluk, or a stretch past Baba Mandir. There are no trees here, only grass, juniper scrub, rocks and sky, and in winter a lot of snow.

Three things bring people. Elephant Lake, or Bitang Tso, a glacial lake just below the road that locals say is shaped like an elephant. The Yak Golf Course, an Army course that Guinness World Records lists as the highest in the world. And the view towards Jelep La, about 5 km away, the pass that carried the Kalimpong wool trade into Tibet for more than half a century. None of these takes long, so an hour covers them all.

Kupup lies in the protected border zone, on the Silk Route. Indian nationals need a Protected Area Permit for the route, arranged by a Gangtok agent or at Rongli, and travel in a locally registered car. Foreign nationals are not allowed here. The road is often blocked by snow from December to March. Visit on a clear morning between April and November, when the road is most reliable, and check current status before you travel.

Don't miss

Highlights of Kupup

Elephant Lake, or Bitang Tso

A small glacial lake in the hollow below Kupup, said by locals to look like an elephant lying down, trunk and all, when seen from the road above. It is green in summer, often frozen in winter, and regarded as the source of the Dichu river.

The Yak Golf Course

An Army golf course at 3,970 m that Guinness World Records lists as the highest in the world. It belongs to an Army base, so treat it as a view from the road, not a round you can book. Snow covers it for much of the winter.

The road towards Jelep La

Jelep La, at about 4,270 m, is around 5 km from Kupup. It was the pass of the Kalimpong wool trade, and the road you drive follows the old British line. The pass itself is closed to tourists; you see the ridge it crosses.

A high valley without trees

At nearly 4,000 m Kupup is above the tree line: grass, juniper and dwarf rhododendron, yaks grazing, and the Dongkya Range on the skyline. In May and June small alpine flowers come up between the rocks. It feels nothing like the forests around Gangtok.

The Silk Route crossing

Kupup is the link between the Nathu La road and the zigzag road down to Zuluk. Coming from Gangtok, it is the start of the Silk Route proper; coming from Zuluk, it is the last high stretch before Baba Mandir and Tsomgo.

Told in the hills

The valley that 1,500 men could camp in

In late 1873 J. W. Edgar, the Deputy Commissioner of Darjeeling, walked these passes to find the best road into Tibet. He described Kupup as a grassy and rather marshy valley where 1,500 men could encamp, with plenty of fuel and rhododendron scrub. He noted a stream running down from Jelep La, past a steep rise called Tent Hill, into Menmecho Lake, which he thought especially beautiful. Edgar preferred Jelep La to Nathu La on physical grounds, and his report shaped what followed.

The British began a cart road to Jelep La in 1884, and Kalimpong grew into the market where Tibetan wool met Indian buyers. In 1910 the 13th Dalai Lama fled Chinese troops over Jelep La to Sikkim and Darjeeling. The route closed after the 1962 war. Today a motorable road follows much of the old British line from Kalimpong to Kupup, and soldiers rather than mule drivers keep the valley busy. In 2017, during the Doklam standoff, Kupup was a key supply link for the Indian Army.

Pinned to the board

Did you know

Guinness World Records lists the Yak golf course at Kupup, 3,970 m above sea level and part of an Indian Army base, as the highest golf course in the world, measured on 10 October 2006.

Bitang Tso, or Elephant Lake, beside Kupup is conventionally regarded as the source of the Dichu river, which flows south-east into Bhutan.

Jelep La, about 5 km from Kupup, stands at about 4,390 m, a little higher than Nathu La, and was the main pass for the Kalimpong–Lhasa wool trade.

Things to do

Four ways to spend a day in Kupup

20–30 minutes Elephant Lake from the road above Kupup · Free (Silk Route permit and car extra)

10–15 minutes The Yak Golf Course, highest in the world Kupup · Free to view (not open for public play)

15–20 minutes Looking towards Jelep La and the wool road Kupup · Free (Silk Route permit and car extra)

2–2.5 hours with stops The high road from Kupup to Nathang and Zuluk Kupup · Part of the Silk Route car, ₹5,500–7,50…

Getting there

How to reach Kupup

Shared jeepThere are no regular shared jeeps to Kupup for tourists. Some Gangtok agents add Kupup to group Silk Route tours, with the price per seat depending on numbers. A full Silk Route trip in a shared group usually works out cheaper than a reserved car only with 5–6 people. Check current status before you travel.

Reserved carMost people pass through Kupup in a reserved car on the Silk Route: Gangtok to Zuluk via Tsomgo, Baba Mandir, Kupup and Nathang, about ₹5,500–7,500 one way, or ₹14,000–20,000 for a 2–3 day circuit, indicative 2026. The agent arranges the permit. Check current status before you travel.

Rail / AirFly to Bagdogra (IXB) or take a train to New Jalpaiguri (NJP). Reach Gangtok, about 125 km, or the Silk Route base at Rongli and Zuluk via Rangpo. Pakyong Airport has no scheduled flights as of 2026. Spend a night at Gangtok or Zuluk before you climb to Kupup.

Costs in Kupupindicative, 2026

Reserved car, Gangtok to Zuluk via Kupup₹5,500–7,500 one way
Silk Route vehicle, 2–3 days₹14,000–20,000
Silk Route permit via agent≈ ₹200 a person
Zuluk homestay, full board₹1,500–2,500 a person a night
Tea and snacks on the road₹50–150

Fares and fees change with fuel prices, season and local union rates. Check current rates before you travel.

Money-saving tip

Rather than a separate Kupup day from Gangtok, cross Kupup on your way to Zuluk: the same car that does Tsomgo and Baba Mandir carries you over the top, and you pay one Silk Route fare instead of two trips.

Where to stay

Sleeping in Kupup

We do not suggest sleeping at Kupup. At nearly 4,000 m, a night here invites altitude sickness, and there is no tourist accommodation we can recommend. Instead, sleep lower and pass through. On the Silk Route, Indian travellers stay in registered village homestays at Zuluk, around 2,900 m, with full board at about ₹1,500–2,500 a person a night, indicative 2026. From the Gangtok side, sleep in town: Hotel Sonam Delek or Mintokling Guest House on a budget, Netuk House or Royal Plaza in the middle range, and Elgin Nor-Khill or Taj Guras Kutir at the top end.

On the map

Drawn by Darjeeling Tour Plan from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Next stations

Near Kupup

All of Gangtok

Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir4,000 m

The Army shrine to a soldier who died near Nathu La in 1968

Viewpoint · best Apr – May · Oct – Nov · 0 (day trip) nights

Nathang Valley4,000 m

A yak herders' valley at about 4,000 m, and the 1888 Gnathang fight

Valley · best Apr – May · Oct – Nov · 0–1 nights

Zuluk2,900 m

Silk Route village above the zigzag road to Thambi

Village · best Apr – May · Oct – Nov · 2 nights

Tsomgo Lake3,753 m

A sacred glacial lake at 3,753 m, 40 km above Gangtok

Lake · best Apr – May · Oct – Nov · 0 (day trip) nights

Questions people ask

Kupup: questions answered

Where is Kupup

Kupup is a hamlet at about 3,980 m in East Sikkim, near the border with Tibet and close to Jelep La. It sits on the Silk Route road between Baba Mandir and Nathang, about 60–65 km and 3 hours from Gangtok via Tsomgo, or about 35 km and 2 hours above Zuluk. It is mostly Army camps, yak pasture and open valley.

Do I need a permit for Kupup

Yes. Kupup is in a protected border area on the Silk Route. Indian nationals need a Protected Area Permit, arranged through a registered Gangtok agent or at Rongli, with two passport photos and a copy of a photo ID per person, at about ₹200 a person. Foreign nationals are not permitted. Check current status before you travel.

Can foreigners visit Kupup

No. Kupup and the rest of the Silk Route, including Zuluk and Nathang, are closed to foreign nationals, and OCI card holders are treated the same. Foreigners can visit Tsomgo Lake on a day permit through a registered agent, usually in a group of two or more, but not beyond. Check current status before you travel.

Can we visit Kupup on a day trip from Gangtok

It is possible with the right permit, but most people see Kupup on the way to Zuluk, not as a return day trip. The return drive from Gangtok is long, about 6 to 7 hours of driving at high altitude. Crossing Kupup to sleep at Zuluk, about 2,900 m, is easier on the body and better value. Ask your agent, and check current status before you travel.

Is Kupup open in winter

Not reliably. From December to March the road over Kupup is often blocked by snow, sometimes for days, and permits for the stretch may be suspended. February is usually the hardest month. When the road is open, the snowfields are beautiful, but keep spare days. April–May and October–November are the dependable windows. Check current status before you travel.

How high is Kupup and is altitude sickness a risk

Kupup is at about 3,980 m, and the Yak Golf Course is listed at 3,970 m. That is high enough for headaches, breathlessness and nausea, especially if you came straight from the plains. Do not sleep here, stop for under an hour, walk slowly and drink water. Anyone with heart or lung conditions, or who is pregnant, should consult a doctor first.

What is Elephant Lake at Kupup

Elephant Lake, also called Bitang Tso or Kupup Lake, is a small glacial lake beside Kupup. Locals name it for its outline, which from the road above looks like an elephant lying down. It is regarded as the source of the Dichu river, which flows into Bhutan. Tourists view it from the road; it is often frozen in winter.

Is there food or a place to stay at Kupup

Not for tourists in any reliable way. There may be a tea stall or small shop, but do not count on a meal, and we do not recommend sleeping at this height. Eat at Tsomgo or Zuluk, and carry water and snacks. Plan the night at Zuluk, in a registered homestay with full board for about ₹1,500–2,500 a person, indicative 2026.

Why was Kupup important in history

Kupup lies on the old road from Kalimpong to Jelep La, the main pass of the wool trade with Tibet. J. W. Edgar surveyed it in 1873 and recorded that 1,500 men could camp in its valley. The British built a cart road to the pass from 1884, and in 2017 Kupup was a key link for the Indian Army during the Doklam standoff.