Elephant Lake from the road above

Bitang Tso lies in the same high hollow as Kupup, on its south-eastern side. From the road above, drivers point out its shape: a body, a head and a long trunk, like an elephant lying down. That is the local explanation of the name, and once you see it you cannot unsee it. In summer the water is dark green and the grass around it bright. In winter it often freezes and disappears under snow.

The lake is conventionally regarded as the source of the Dichu river, though other streams off the Dongkya Range carry more water. The Dichu runs south-east past Mount Gipmochi and into Bhutan. So from one roadside stop you are looking at water bound for Bhutan, while the streams a short way behind you drain north-west towards Menmecho Lake and the Teesta. The watershed between two river systems, and two countries' rivers, runs right past your car.

Stop where your driver suggests; the road shoulder is narrow and Army trucks use it. You will usually view the lake from above rather than walk down to it, since this is a restricted border area. Mornings are clearer, and by early afternoon cloud often rolls over the valley. Keep the stop to 20 or 30 minutes. At nearly 4,000 m, even standing still for a photograph is tiring, so let the youngest and oldest stay in the warm car.