Photo: Rangan Datta Wiki · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Nathang ValleyHeight above mean sea level 4,000 m

valley · Gangtok and East Sikkim

A yak herders' valley at about 4,000 m, and the 1888 Gnathang fight

Best Apr – May · Oct – Nov0–1 nights

Nathang, or Gnathang, is a high open valley at about 4,000 m on the Silk Route, roughly 20–25 km above Zuluk. A small herders' village sits in its bowl, and in 1888 British and Tibetan forces fought here. It is open to Indian nationals only on a Silk Route permit. Most people visit from Zuluk rather than sleep this high.

Nathang is a wide, flat-bottomed valley in the high country above Zuluk, at about 4,000 m, often quoted as 13,000 to 13,500 ft. In summer it is a green bowl of grass with yaks grazing and a stream winding through it. From December to March it is white, and the village roofs show dark against the snow. It sits on the Silk Route between Zuluk and Kupup, in Pakyong district, and its small village of herding families is one of the highest settlements on the route.

Gnathang village is small: the 2011 census counted 13 households and 60 people. Families keep yaks, grow little at this height and, in recent decades, have opened their homes to travellers as registered homestays. Most visitors stop for an hour on the drive between Zuluk and Kupup. A few stay a night, usually after acclimatising at Zuluk, to see the valley at dawn when frost covers the grass and the herders take the yaks out.

This is a protected border zone. Indian nationals need a Silk Route Protected Area Permit, arranged by a Gangtok agent or at Rongli, and a locally registered car. Foreign nationals are not allowed. The road can be blocked by snow in winter and damaged by landslides in the monsoon on the lower stretches. Check current status before you travel, and plan your nights so you sleep lower than you play.

Don't miss

Highlights of Nathang Valley

A green bowl in summer, white in winter

From May to September grass covers the valley floor and a stream loops through it; from December to March it all lies under snow. Both are worth seeing. Autumn, October and November, gives the clearest skies and the most reliable roads.

Yaks and the herders' village

Gnathang is a small village of herding families, with yaks grazing the valley and slopes. Watch them go out in the morning, keep your distance from the animals and ask before photographing people. Homestays here are run by the same families.

The 1888 battle ground

In May 1888 Tibetan troops attacked a British post at Gnathong, and the valley remained a British base through that year's campaign. There is little to see on the ground today, but knowing the story turns an empty plateau into a frontier with a past.

On the old road to Jelep La

Nathang lay on the trade route from Kalimpong through Rongli and Zuluk, over Kupup to Jelep La and Tibet. Mule trains of wool passed this way until the passes closed after 1962. The road you drive follows much of the same line.

A stop between Zuluk and Kupup

Most Silk Route cars spend 30–60 minutes here between Zuluk and Kupup. That is enough for a walk to the stream, tea in a homestay and photos. If you want dawn on the valley, sleep a night, but only after a night at Zuluk.

Quick facts

Best monthsApr – May, Oct – Nov; snow Dec – Mar
Nights we suggest0–1 (sleep at Zuluk if new to altitude)
Nearest airportBagdogra (IXB), ≈ 165 km via Rongli
From Zuluk≈ 20–25 km · 1–1.5 h
From Gangtok≈ 75 km · 3.5–4 h via Tsomgo and Kupup
Altitude≈ 4,000 m
Known forYak pastures, 1888 battle site, snowfields, homestays

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Told in the hills

Gnathang 1888: when Tibet and Britain fought here

In 1886 Tibetan troops crossed Jelep La and fortified Lingtu, a ridge inside Sikkim, to block a British mission and the cart road being built towards the pass. In March 1888 a British force under Brigadier-General Thomas Graham drove them out. The British then dug in at Gnathong, a plateau a few miles north of Lingtu. On 21 May the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal arrived there, and early the next morning, 22 May 1888, the Tibetans attacked.

The fighting lasted from about 7 to 10 am, when the Tibetans fell back over Jelep La. The British admitted three killed and eight wounded and claimed far heavier Tibetan losses. In September the British stormed Tuko La and Jelep La and advanced briefly into the Chumbi Valley. That winter the Chinese Amban came to Gnathong to negotiate, and the talks led to the Convention of Calcutta in 1890, which fixed the Sikkim–Tibet border. In December 1903 Younghusband's escort marched out of Gnathong for Tibet.

Pinned to the board

Did you know

On 22 May 1888 Tibetan forces attacked the British post at Gnathong; the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal had arrived there the day before.

The British force that set out for Tibet under Brigadier-General James Macdonald, escorting Younghusband's mission, departed Gnathong on 11 December 1903.

The 2011 census recorded Gnathang village as covering 16 hectares, with 13 households and a population of 60.

Things to do

Four ways to spend a day in Nathang Valley

30–45 minutes Gnathang 1888: reading the old battle ground Nathang Valley · Free (Silk Route permit and car extra)

1 hour Butter tea and the yak herders of Nathang Nathang Valley · ₹50–150 for tea and snacks, indicative …

1 night A night in a Nathang homestay, if acclimatised Nathang Valley · ₹1,500–2,500 a person, full board, indi…

Half a day Driving the old mule road from Zuluk to Kupup Nathang Valley · Part of the Silk Route car, ₹14,000–20,…

Getting there

How to reach Nathang Valley

Shared jeepThere is no regular shared jeep service to Nathang for tourists. Shared jeeps run from Siliguri and Gangtok to Rongli, about ₹250–450 a seat, indicative 2026, and from there you need a reserved local car with the Silk Route permit. Some Gangtok agents run group Silk Route tours. Check current status before you travel.

Reserved carMost visitors come in a reserved car on a Silk Route circuit: about ₹14,000–20,000 for 2–3 days, or ₹5,500–7,500 one way between Gangtok and Zuluk via Tsomgo, Kupup and Nathang, indicative 2026. The agent or Rongli office arranges the permit. Check current status before you travel.

Rail / AirFly to Bagdogra (IXB) or take a train to New Jalpaiguri (NJP), then drive about 160 km via Rangpo and Rongli, 6–7 hours, sleeping at Zuluk or lower on the way. Pakyong Airport has no scheduled flights as of 2026. Check current status before you travel.

Costs in Nathang Valleyindicative, 2026

Silk Route vehicle, 2–3 days₹14,000–20,000
Reserved car, Gangtok to Zuluk via Nathang₹5,500–7,500 one way
Silk Route permit via agent≈ ₹200 a person
Homestay, full board₹1,500–2,500 a person a night
Shared jeep seat to Rongli₹250–450

Fares and fees change with fuel prices, season and local union rates. Check current rates before you travel.

Money-saving tip

Book the Silk Route as a 2–3 day circuit with one car for the whole trip rather than separate one-way hires; with four or five people sharing, the per-head cost falls to about ₹3,000–5,000 for the transport.

Where to stay

Sleeping in Nathang Valley

Nathang has a handful of registered village homestays run by herding families: simple rooms, thick quilts, shared or basic attached bathrooms and full board, at about ₹1,500–2,500 a person a night, indicative 2026. We do not name individual homestays here, because they change hands and seasons; your Silk Route agent books them with the permit. Our honest advice is to sleep at Zuluk, around 2,900 m, where there are many more registered homestays, and visit Nathang by day. If you do stay at Nathang, do so only after a night at Zuluk or Gangtok, and never on your first night in the hills.

On the map

Drawn by Darjeeling Tour Plan from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Next stations

Near Nathang Valley

All of Gangtok

Zuluk2,900 m

Silk Route village above the zigzag road to Thambi

Village · best Apr – May · Oct – Nov · 2 nights

Kupup3,980 m

Elephant Lake, the Yak Golf Course and the old road to Jelep La

Valley · best Apr – May · Oct – Nov · 0 (stop on the Silk Route) nights

Rongli850 m

Old trade bazaar on the Rangpo River and the Silk Route permit gate

River town · best Mar – May · Oct – Nov · 0–1 nights

Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir4,000 m

The Army shrine to a soldier who died near Nathu La in 1968

Viewpoint · best Apr – May · Oct – Nov · 0 (day trip) nights

Questions people ask

Nathang Valley: questions answered

Where is Nathang Valley

Nathang Valley is in Pakyong district, East Sikkim, at about 4,000 m on the Silk Route. It lies roughly 20–25 km above Zuluk and a short drive below Kupup, close to the Tibet border. From Gangtok it is about 75 km and 3.5 to 4 hours via Tsomgo and Kupup. From Siliguri it is about 160 km via Rongli.

Do I need a permit for Nathang Valley

Yes. Nathang is in a protected border area. Indian nationals need a Silk Route Protected Area Permit, arranged through a registered Gangtok agent or at Rongli, with two passport photos and a copy of a photo ID per person, at about ₹200 a person. Foreign nationals cannot get this permit. Check current status before you travel.

Can foreigners visit Nathang Valley

No. Nathang, Zuluk, Kupup and the rest of the Silk Route are closed to foreign nationals, and OCI card holders are treated the same. Foreigners can visit Tsomgo Lake on a day permit through a registered agent, usually in a group of two or more, but cannot continue to the Silk Route. Check current status before you travel.

What is the best time to visit Nathang

April–May and October–November are the most reliable, with open roads and clear mornings; autumn has the best skies. December to March brings deep snow and beautiful scenes, but roads can be blocked for days. June to September is green but cloudy, and landslides can cut the lower roads. Check current status before you travel.

Does Nathang get snow

Yes, a lot. From about December to March the valley and roads are usually under snow, and February is often the hardest month. The scenery is striking, but the road between Zuluk, Nathang and Kupup can close for days and nights are far below freezing. If snow is your aim, travel in December or March and keep spare days.

Is altitude sickness a risk at Nathang

Yes. At about 4,000 m, Nathang is high enough for headaches, nausea, breathlessness and poor sleep, especially if you arrive quickly from lower ground. Spend a night at Zuluk first, walk slowly, drink water and avoid alcohol. Descend if symptoms worsen. Those with heart or lung conditions, or who are pregnant, should consult a doctor first.

How many days do we need for Nathang and the Silk Route

Plan on 2 to 3 days. A common plan is Rongli or Aritar on the first night, two nights at Zuluk with a day up to Nathang and Kupup, then on to Gangtok via Baba Mandir and Tsomgo. A vehicle for 2–3 days costs about ₹14,000–20,000, indicative 2026. Check current status before you travel.

Are there homestays at Nathang

Yes, a handful of registered homestays run by village families, with full board for about ₹1,500–2,500 a person a night, indicative 2026. They are simple, cold and friendly. Your Silk Route agent books them with the permit. Most travellers sleep at Zuluk instead, which is about 1,000 m lower and has more choice.

Is Nathang suitable for children and seniors

As a day visit from Zuluk, usually yes, if they are healthy and keep the stop short. Sleeping at Nathang is a different matter: we do not advise it for infants, young children or anyone with heart or lung conditions. Keep everyone warm, watch for headache or drowsiness, and go down to Zuluk at the first sign of trouble.