Told in the hills
The summit two climbers chose not to tread
Kangchenjunga, at 8,586 m, is the third-highest mountain in the world. For the Lepcha people it is Kongchen Kongchlo, and in Lepcha tradition the first Lepcha couple were made from the snows of its summit. For Sikkim as a whole it is a guardian deity, honoured each year at Pang Lhabsol. That reverence shaped one of the most unusual moments in mountaineering, and you are walking towards the mountain it concerns when you climb above Dzongri.
In 1955 a British expedition led by Charles Evans attempted the mountain from the Nepal side. Before they set out, they promised Sikkim's ruler, Chogyal Tashi Namgyal, that the very top would stay untrodden. On 25 May 1955 Joe Brown and George Band climbed to within a few feet of the summit and stopped there, keeping the promise. Norman Hardie and Tony Streather reached the same point the next day and also stopped short.
Many climbers since then have kept the same custom, stopping just below the true top. On the Indian side the mountain remains closed to climbing expeditions, out of respect for its place in Sikkimese belief. From Dzongri Top and from the viewpoints near Goecha La you see the south-east face of that untrodden summit. It is worth knowing the story before you get there; it changes how you look at the mountain at dawn.
Pinned to the board
Did you know
Khangchendzonga National Park, through which the whole Goecha La trail runs, became India's first 'mixed' UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2016.
Samiti Lake on the Goecha La trail lies at about 4,200 m and is considered sacred by local people as a source of the Prek Chu river.
Mount Pandim, which towers over the upper Goecha La valley, is 6,691 m high.






