Rhododendron forests between Sachen and Tshoka

The first two days of the trek run through Khangchendzonga National Park's lower forests. From Yuksom, at 1,780 m, the trail crosses side streams on suspension bridges and climbs to Sachen, at about 2,200 m, then to Tshoka, at about 3,000 m. The forest is dense and damp, with moss, ferns and orchids on the trunks. In spring it smells of wet earth and flowers, and in autumn it is cool and quiet.

Above Tshoka the trail turns to wooden planks and stone steps through rhododendron forest towards Phedang. In April and early May the trees flower in waves of red, pink and white. The tree rhododendron, Rhododendron arboreum, is one of many species here. Bloom times change with height and with each year's weather, so the lower trees can be finished while the higher ones are just beginning. Ask your agency for recent reports before you book.

This is also the best section for birds. Look and listen for blood pheasants, Sikkim's state bird, and with luck a Himalayan monal or satyr tragopan in the higher forest. Walk slowly, keep your voice down and stop often. There is no hurry: most groups reach Tshoka by early afternoon. If you see a red panda, count yourself very lucky; they live in these forests but are rarely seen. Never feed any animal or bird on the trail.