Now in the hills

DarjeelingTour Plan

nature · Chele La, Bhutan

Early morning views of Jomolhari

3–4 hours from Paro6–9 am, Oct–Dec and Apr–MayFree; car and guide as part of your day rate
Early morning views of Jomolhari
Photo: Mario Biondi writer · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
An early drive from Paro to the 3,988 m pass for the morning view north to Jomolhari and Jichu Drake, with prayer flags in the foreground. Back in Paro by late morning, or carry on down to Haa.

Mountain views in Bhutan are a matter of timing. At Chele La, the clearest hour is usually soon after sunrise, before warm air from the valleys pushes cloud up the slopes. That means leaving Paro by about 6–6.30 am, with tea in a flask, and driving up through the forest while the light comes up. You reach the pass in 1–1.5 hours.

On a good day, Jomolhari, about 7,326 m and one of the most sacred mountains in Bhutan, rises to the north on the border with Tibet, with Jichu Drake close by. Below you the Haa valley opens to the west and the Paro valley to the east. The flags give a foreground, and by 8 am the sun is high enough to light the snow. On cloudy days, wait half an hour; gaps often open and close.

October to December gives the best chance of clear skies. April and May bring rhododendron colour on the way up but more haze at the top, and June to September is often cloud from the start. Dress for cold and wind: down jacket, hat and gloves. If you are carrying on to Haa, this is the best way to start the drive; if not, you are back in Paro for a late breakfast.

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Questions people ask

Good to know

Can you see Jomolhari from Chele La

Yes, on clear days, usually in the early morning. Jomolhari, about 7,326 m, and Jichu Drake appear to the north. The best months are October to December, with spring a second choice. Leave Paro by 6.30 am, because cloud often builds by mid-morning, and in the monsoon months the peaks are usually hidden.

What time should I leave Paro for Chele La

Leave by about 6–6.30 am. The drive takes 1–1.5 hours, which puts you at the pass between 7 and 8 am, usually the clearest time. If you leave after breakfast, you reach the top around 10 am, when cloud has often covered the high peaks. Take tea and snacks to eat at the top.

How cold is it at Chele La

Colder than you expect. At about 3,988 m it is often around 0–8 °C in the morning from October to May, with a strong wind, and below freezing in winter. Bring a down or fleece jacket, hat and gloves even in spring. In December to February, snow can close the road entirely; check current status before you travel.

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