Now in the hills

DarjeelingTour Plan

culture · Uttarey, Pelling

Homestay evening with a Limbu family

EveningYear-round except monsoonIncluded with full-board homestay
Homestay evening with a Limbu family
Photo: Ashishlohorung · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons
Spend an evening by the kitchen fire with a Limbu or Bhutia host family in Uttarey. Eat home-cooked food, ask about the Mundhum, Limbu script and life on the border, and go to bed early for a dawn start.

Uttarey is home to Limbu and Bhutia families, and staying with one is the best way to understand the village. The Limbu call themselves Yakthung. Their traditions follow the Mundhum, an oral scripture recited by priests at births, weddings and funerals, and their main festival is Chasok Tangnam, a thanksgiving for the harvest. Limbu is one of the official languages of Sikkim. Your hosts may be Limbu, Bhutia or Nepali-speaking; every home is different.

Dinner is usually simple and filling: rice, dal, seasonal greens, a pickle, perhaps chicken or pork. Ask about kinema, the fermented soybean dish that Limbu kitchens are known for, and about tongba, millet beer sipped through a bamboo straw, if your hosts make it. Do not push if they do not. Eat with your right hand if you like, and praise the cook. Say so early if you are vegetarian or avoid alcohol; hosts are used to it and will cook accordingly.

Ask questions with care: how the family came to Uttarey, what crops they grow, what festivals they keep. Some homes have prayer books or calendars in Limbu script; ask before you photograph them. Evenings end early here, often by 9 pm, because farm days start at dawn. That suits you too if you plan a ridge walk in the morning. Pay your bill the night before if you leave at dawn, and carry small notes.

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Questions people ask

Good to know

Who are the Limbu people of Sikkim

The Limbu, who call themselves Yakthung, are an indigenous people of eastern Nepal and Sikkim. Their homeland is known as Limbuwan. They follow the Mundhum, an oral scripture, have their own script linked to the name Sirijunga, and celebrate Chasok Tangnam. In Sikkim they are recognised as a Scheduled Tribe.

What food will I eat at an Uttarey homestay

Expect rice, dal, seasonal greens, pickles, eggs and chicken or pork, served at breakfast and dinner, often with lunch too. Ask about kinema, a fermented soybean dish, and fresh trout a day ahead. Vegetarian meals are easy to arrange if you say so when booking.

Is it safe to stay at a homestay in Uttarey

Yes, homestays in Uttarey are family homes and generally safe for solo travellers, women and families. Book through a known contact or your operator, share your plans with someone, and carry ID. Rooms are basic, so bring a torch, warm socks and any medicines you need.

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