Rinchenpong Monastery and the Ati Buddha

Rinchenpong Monastery was founded in 1730, which makes it older than most buildings you will see in Sikkim. Wikipedia credits the founding to Ngadakpa Lama. The path starts at the small bazaar and climbs on stone steps through houses and trees. It is short but steep, so go slowly and stop for breath. Allow about an hour for the walk up, the visit and the walk down. Go in dry shoes with grip, as the steps can be wet after rain.

The reason to come is the image of the Ati Buddha, or Adi Buddha, the primordial Buddha. He is painted blue and shown in yab-yum, in union with a female figure. In Tibetan Buddhist art this pairing stands for the joining of wisdom and compassion, not for anything crude, and it is rare to see it as the main image of a village monastery. Look closely at the painted walls and the small images around the altar too, and give your eyes a minute to adjust to the dim light inside.

Photography is not allowed inside the sanctum, and monks may ask you to put phones away. Take off your shoes, walk clockwise and keep your voice low. Mornings are best, when butter lamps are lit and the light is soft. If a monk is free, ask about the monastery's history; a small donation for the lamps is always welcome. Keep the visit short if prayers are on, and sit quietly at the back rather than walking in front of the monks.