Kaluk ridge sunrise over Kangchenjunga

The ridge that carries Rinchenpong and Kaluk faces north across the deep valleys of West Sikkim to the Kangchenjunga range. At 8,586 m, Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world, and from here it fills a wide stretch of the horizon with its neighbouring peaks. Sunrise is around 5.30 to 6 am in October and later in December. On the best mornings you can pick out several snow peaks of the range, white against a deep blue sky, long before the valleys below lose their shadow.

You do not need a tour. Most homestays and lodges along the ridge have a terrace or a corner of the road with an open view. Ask your host the night before where the best spot is, and whether the sky looks promising. Go out 20 minutes before sunrise, because the first pink light on the snow comes before the sun reaches you. Keep your phone in a warm pocket so the battery lasts, and stay on for an hour: the colours change fast, then the light turns flat and white.

Kaluk is known as one of the windiest places in Sikkim, and dawn can feel cold even when the day turns warm. Take a jacket, a cap and a flask of tea. October to December gives the clearest skies. From March, haze often hides the peaks after early morning, and from June to September clouds usually win, so plan the trip around the season. If the first morning is cloudy, a second night gives you another chance at no extra travel cost.