Evening walk along the Rangeet

The Rangeet rises in West Sikkim and runs south past Legship and Jorethang before joining the Teesta near the West Bengal border. At Jorethang it is a wide, fast river between steep, forested slopes, with Darjeeling district on the far bank. In the cool months the water is clear and green-grey; in the monsoon it turns brown and loud. The town sits at about 320 m, so evenings here are mild when Pelling is close to freezing.

Walk down from the bazaar towards the riverbank in the late afternoon. You will see families out for a stroll, children playing on the open ground and, in January, the mela site taking shape. Birds work the river edge, and the light goes golden on the slopes opposite before the valley falls into shade. It is a simple hour, and a good way to stretch after a long jeep ride.

Stay well back from the water. The Rangeet is fast and cold, levels can rise without warning when dams upstream release water or rain falls in the hills, and the rocks are slippery. Do not swim or wade, and keep children close. From June to September keep away from the bank entirely and check current status before you travel, as roads along the river are prone to landslides. In the dry months, a torch is useful for the walk back up to the bazaar after dark.