nature · Gurudongmar Lake, North Sikkim
The plateau drive from Thangu
The road from Thangu climbs out of the last scrub and onto open ground: rolling brown and grey moraines, glacial streams, stone shelters and, in season, scattered yaks and sheep. On a clear morning snow peaks line the horizon. The plateau is the southern edge of the Tibetan high country, and it looks it.
There is little to stop for, and in parts stopping is not allowed because this is an army area close to the border. Do not photograph army installations, convoys or soldiers. Your driver knows where a short photo stop is acceptable; ask, and accept a no. On the way, the army runs a medical post where oxygen is available if anyone is struggling.
This is where altitude sickness usually starts to show, between Thangu and the lake. Keep talking to each other. If someone becomes quiet, confused or very pale, or vomits repeatedly, turn back. The lake will still be there another year; your health may not recover as easily.
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Questions people ask
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Can I stop for photos on the way to Gurudongmar
Sometimes, at places your driver knows are permitted. Much of the plateau is army-controlled and close to the border, so stops are restricted and photographing army installations, vehicles or personnel is forbidden. Ask your driver, follow instructions at checkposts and accept a refusal without argument.
Is there medical help on the Gurudongmar road
Yes. The army checks tourists at Thangu and runs medical posts on the road, where oxygen is available for anyone with severe breathlessness. These are for emergencies, not routine top-ups. If you need oxygen, the right next step is to go down, not to continue to the lake.
How cold is the Gurudongmar plateau
Very cold, especially at dawn. In October and November temperatures at the lake can be around −5 to −10 °C with strong wind, and colder in winter. Even in May and June it is often near freezing. Dress in thermals, fleece, a down jacket, windproof layer, gloves and a woollen cap.
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