adventure · Zuluk, Gangtok
Lungthung and Nathang Valley morning drive
After sunrise at Thambi, the road carries on up the ridge to Lungthung, a cluster of army posts and a few houses at roughly 12,500–13,000 ft by local counts. On a clear day the Kangchenjunga range shows again from here, and in spring the slopes on the way are red and pink with rhododendron. The air is thin and the wind sharp, so keep stops short and drink water. This stretch is also where snow lingers longest after a winter fall.
Beyond Lungthung the land opens into Nathang Valley, a wide grassy bowl at about 4,000 m with a small village of wooden houses, a gompa and grazing yaks. In 1888, during the Sikkim expedition, Tibetan troops attacked the British position here, then spelt Gnathang. The mule caravans of the Kalimpong–Lhasa trade also passed this way towards Jelep La. Today it is quiet, cold and very open, and the light in the morning is clean.
Some trips loop back down to Zuluk for a second night; others carry on past Kupup and the Tsomgo road towards Gangtok, which is the easiest way to see the whole Silk Route in one go. Either way, this is the highest point of the trip, so anyone with a headache, breathlessness at rest or nausea should go down rather than push on. Children and seniors should sleep at Zuluk, not Nathang, on their first night.
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Questions people ask
Good to know
How high is Nathang Valley and is altitude sickness a risk
Nathang Valley is at about 4,000 m, roughly 13,000–13,500 ft, and Lungthung on the way is not much lower. Altitude sickness is a real risk above 3,000 m, especially if you came up from the plains quickly. Spend a night at Zuluk first, keep your time at the top short, drink water and come down if you get a bad headache, nausea or breathlessness while resting.
Can we stay overnight at Nathang Valley instead of Zuluk
You can, as Nathang has a few registered homestays, but we only suggest it for fit adults who have already slept a night at Zuluk or higher. At about 4,000 m nights are well below freezing for much of the year, and altitude sickness is more likely when you sleep high. For families with children or seniors, sleep at Zuluk and visit Nathang as a morning drive.
Is the Lungthung and Nathang road open in winter
Often, but not reliably. From December to February heavy snow can close the road above Zuluk for days, and the army and Border Roads crews clear it in stages. Your permit may also be restricted to lower points after a fresh fall. Keep a spare day, accept that Nathang may drop off the plan, and check current status before you travel.
