village · Zuluk, Gangtok
A homestay evening in Zuluk village
Most Silk Route cars reach Zuluk by mid-afternoon. That leaves time for a short walk along the village road before the cold comes down at dusk. You pass the army camp, a few shops selling biscuits, noodles and cold drinks, and houses with stacks of firewood under the eaves. Livelihoods here are the army, road work and tourism, and many families do a bit of all three. Be polite with cameras and ask before photographing people.
Dinner is usually served in the family kitchen or a small dining room by 7.30 or 8 pm: rice, dal, a vegetable, egg or chicken curry, pickles, and sometimes local greens or noodle soup. Ask for gundruk, the fermented leafy greens, or chhurpi, the local cheese, if the house has them. Tea comes often. Rooms have heavy quilts and sometimes a small heater; bathrooms may be shared, and hot water usually arrives by the bucket.
This is the moment to ask about the past. Older people in Zuluk remember the stories of the Kalimpong–Lhasa caravans, the closing of Jelep La and the years when the village was a stop for mules rather than jeeps. Not everyone wants to talk, and that is fine. Go to bed early. Your driver will be outside before dawn for Thambi, and the house will already have the kettle on.
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Questions people ask
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Are Zuluk homestays comfortable in winter
They are warm enough if you come prepared. Rooms have thick quilts and some houses offer a small heater, but there is no central heating and nights between December and February drop well below freezing. Bring thermals, a woollen cap and socks to sleep in. Hot water usually comes by the bucket. If you need hotel-level comfort, sleep at Aritar or Gangtok and visit Zuluk as a long day.
How much does a homestay in Zuluk cost
Most registered homestays in Zuluk charge about ₹1,500–2,500 per person per night including dinner and breakfast, indicative 2026. Rates go up in peak weeks such as Durga Puja, Diwali and the snow season, and down in late spring and early autumn. Many travellers book through their Silk Route driver or agent, which is easiest because the homestay must be on the permit route.
What food is served at Zuluk homestays
Expect simple home food: rice, dal, a seasonal vegetable, egg or chicken curry, pickle and tea, with bread, eggs or noodles for breakfast. Some houses cook gundruk, local greens or thukpa if you ask in advance. Vegetarian meals are easy to arrange. Tell your host about allergies early, because there are no shops nearby to buy alternatives.
