culture · Nathu La, Gangtok
Sherathang war memorial and the 1967 clashes
After the 1962 war, Nathu La stayed tense. Both armies dug in along the crest, and arguments over where exactly the line ran grew sharper. Fighting broke out on 11 September 1967, when Chinese forces attacked Indian posts at the pass, and lasted until 15 September, with artillery fire on both sides. In October 1967 another clash took place at Cho La, a pass to the north. Both sides lost men, and the accounts of numbers still differ.
Independent accounts describe a decisive tactical advantage for the Indian Army, which held its positions. The memorial at Sherathang honours the Indian soldiers who died in both clashes. It is a short stop, and drivers include it when time and Army rules allow. Ask in the morning rather than on the way down, when everyone is tired, the light is going and the cloud is closing in over the road.
Treat it as you would any war grave. Remove caps if asked, keep voices low and do not climb on the structures. Photographs are usually allowed, but check with any soldier present. For many Indian visitors, this is the part of the day that stays with them longest, more than the pass itself. Take a moment, read the plaques, and remember that young men served here in the cold, far from home, as soldiers still do today.
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What happened at Nathu La in 1967
Between 11 and 15 September 1967, Indian and Chinese troops fought at Nathu La after a dispute over the border fence turned into an attack on Indian posts, followed by artillery fire. A second clash took place at Cho La in October 1967. There were deaths on both sides, and the Indian Army held its positions. The Sherathang memorial honours the Indian soldiers who died.
Where is the Nathu La war memorial
The war memorial for the 1967 Nathu La and Cho La clashes stands at Sherathang, a few kilometres below the pass on the Indian side, close to the trade mart. Drivers usually stop there on the way up or down if time and Army rules allow. There is no separate ticket. Ask your driver in the morning so he can plan the stop.
Is Sherathang open to foreigners
No. Sherathang lies beyond Tsomgo Lake on the Nathu La road, and foreign nationals are not given permits past the lake. The memorial, trade mart and pass are for Indian nationals on a Protected Area Permit arranged through a registered agent. Foreign visitors can still see Tsomgo Lake on a day permit. Check current status before you travel.
