Early-morning birding at Fambong Lho

Birding at Fambong Lho is about patience. Arrive at the gate as it opens at 8 am and walk the lower trails very slowly. Listen first, then look. Mixed flocks move through the canopy, and in spring the forest is loud with calls. Species recorded here include bar-throated and red-tailed minlas, scaly laughingthrush, black-eared shrike babbler, yellow-browed tit and crimson-browed finch. Stop often, stand still and let the birds come to you along the edges of clearings.

The birds most people hope for are harder. Satyr tragopan, a crimson pheasant with blue facial skin, lives on these forested slopes but is shy and mostly seen at dawn on quiet paths. Fire-tailed myzornis feeds on rhododendron flowers higher up. The rufous-headed hornbill has also been recorded. A good local guide knows calls and likely spots, and will not use playback recklessly, which disturbs breeding birds. Patience matters more than distance covered.

Bring binoculars, a field guide or app, a notebook and dull-coloured clothes. Walk in a small group of two to four and keep talking to a whisper. Carry tea and breakfast, as there are no stalls inside. March to May is best, with October and November a good second choice. The sanctuary closes at 3 pm. Fees and rules change, so check current status before you travel. Keep a simple list of what you see.