Living with an eco-village family

Chatakpur's homestays are part of a community ecotourism effort supported by the forest department. Each family keeps a few rooms, and guests are shared around so that the income spreads through the village. Rooms are simple and wood-lined, with heavy quilts, attached or shared bathrooms and hot water by geyser or bucket. Electricity is available but cuts happen, so carry a torch and a power bank.

Meals are eaten with the family or in a small dining room. Expect rice, dal, seasonal vegetables from the garden, squash, potatoes, mustard greens, homemade achar and, if you ask, chicken or eggs. Breakfast might be puri, aloo dum or noodles with tea. If you want to help cook or learn a dish, say so; most hosts are happy to show you, and the kitchen is the warmest place in the house.

Book ahead, since there are only a few rooms, and confirm what the price includes: most quote per person per day with all meals. Pay in cash. Respect the village rules on noise, alcohol and waste, and ask before photographing people. There is little to buy, so bring snacks and any medicines you need. A two-night stay gives you one full day to walk, read and watch the light on the mountains.