food · Wangdue Phodrang, Bhutan
A local lunch in Bajothang
Bajothang is the planned new town of Wangdue Phodrang, a few kilometres down the river from the dzong. Most of the shops and offices that once stood in the old bazaar below the dzong moved here, so it has banks, a few ATMs, petrol, grocery shops and a row of small restaurants. It is not pretty, but it is where drivers and guides eat, which is always a good sign.
A standard lunch is a set meal: red rice, ema datshi (chillies in cheese), kewa datshi (potatoes in cheese), a dal, a green vegetable and sometimes pork, beef or chicken. Ask for the chillies on the side if you do not eat hot food. A meal costs about ₹250–450 per person, indicative 2026, much less than a tourist hotel buffet. Momos and thukpa are also easy to find.
Use the stop to stock up for the road. If you are heading to Phobjikha, buy fruit and biscuits here, take out cash, and use a proper toilet, because the drive up through the forest and over Lawa La has few facilities. Pay in ngultrum or Indian rupees; both are accepted at par, though ₹2,000 notes are not.
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Where should I eat between Punakha and Phobjikha
Bajothang, Wangdue's new town, is the best lunch stop. It has several small restaurants serving set meals of red rice, ema datshi, kewa datshi and dal for about ₹250–450 per person, indicative 2026. After Bajothang the road climbs through forest to Phobjikha with only a few roadside stalls, so eat and use the toilets here.
Can I pay in Indian rupees in Wangdue
Yes. The ngultrum is pegged at par to the Indian rupee, and rupees are widely accepted in Bhutan, including in Wangdue and Bajothang. Carry ₹500 and smaller notes. Card payments and UPI are increasingly accepted in towns but are not reliable everywhere, so keep some cash. Check current status before you travel.
Is Bhutanese food very spicy
Often, yes. Chillies are treated as a vegetable, and ema datshi is chillies cooked in cheese. Restaurants used to tourists will make milder versions or serve chillies on the side if you ask. Kewa datshi, made with potatoes and cheese, red rice, dal and vegetables are usually mild. Tell your guide in advance and they will order for you.
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