Druk Wangyal Lhakhang and its modern murals

Druk Wangyal Lhakhang stands on the slope just above the chortens. It was completed in June 2008, the year Bhutan marked 100 years of the Wangchuck monarchy and adopted its constitution. The building is traditional in form, with a gilded roof and painted woodwork, and sits with the forest behind it and the mountain view in front.

Inside, the paintings mix the classical with the contemporary. Alongside the Buddhas and protective deities you will find scenes from Bhutan's recent history, including the Fourth King, and images that recall the 2003 operation in the south. Most Bhutanese temples show only religious subjects, so this mix is worth taking time over. Ask your guide to explain the figures, because they tie the 108 chortens outside to the country's modern story.

Remove shoes and caps inside, dress modestly and do not take photographs of the interior. The temple is generally open in daytime; an attendant may be present. On 13 December each year the Druk Wangyal Tshechu is held in the open ground in front, with masked dances that commemorate the 2003 events. It is one of the few tshechus on a fixed calendar date, so it is easy to plan around.