Now in the hills

DarjeelingTour Plan

Losar

Feb–Mar, Tibetan new year (lunar calendar)

Losar is the Tibetan new year, celebrated in Darjeeling's Buddhist monasteries and homes over several days in February or March. Ghum's Yiga Choeling and the town's Tibetan and Bhutia families mark it with prayers, butter lamps, fresh prayer flags and new-year food.
Losar
Photo: Ailiajameel · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Losar falls on the first day of the Tibetan lunar calendar, usually in February and sometimes in early March. In the Darjeeling hills it belongs to the Tibetan, Bhutia, Sherpa, Tamang and other Buddhist communities. In the days before, houses are cleaned, debts settled and old prayer flags replaced. The day before the new year, many families eat guthuk, a noodle soup with dough balls holding small tokens.

On the morning of Losar, families visit monasteries with offerings. Ghum's Yiga Choeling, founded in 1850, and other monasteries around Ghum and Darjeeling fill with butter lamps and visitors, and monks hold special prayers. Some monasteries perform masked cham dances around this time, though the exact dates differ by monastery and tradition, so ask locally.

For visitors, Losar is a chance to see the hills' Buddhist life at its most open. Expect crowds at the monasteries in the morning, closed shops in Tibetan neighbourhoods on the first days, and plenty of khapse, the fried new-year biscuits, being shared. It is also low season for tourism, so hotel rates are often lower.

How to do it well

  1. Check the Losar date for your year early; it moves with the lunar calendar and Sonam Losar or Gyalpo Losar dates differ.
  2. Walk clockwise around monasteries and stupas, and ask before photographing prayers or people.
  3. Pack for cold: Ghum at 2,258 m is often 0–6 °C and foggy in February.

Questions people ask

Good to know

When is Losar celebrated in Darjeeling

Losar follows the Tibetan lunar calendar and usually falls in February, sometimes early March. Celebrations run over several days, with the main monastery visits on the first day. The Tamang community also marks Sonam Losar, usually a few weeks earlier. Check the exact date for your year before you travel, as it changes every year.

Can tourists visit monasteries during Losar

Yes. Monasteries such as Yiga Choeling in Ghum stay open, and visitors are welcome if they are respectful. Go in the morning, dress warmly and modestly, remove shoes where asked, and do not walk in front of people praying. Ask before taking photos inside prayer halls, and keep phones on silent.

What food is eaten at Losar in Darjeeling

Families make guthuk, a noodle soup eaten the night before the new year, and khapse, fried biscuits shaped in twists and knots. Momos, thukpa and butter tea appear on most tables. Some Tibetan restaurants close for a day or two, so check opening times around the festival.

Is February a good time to visit Darjeeling for Losar

It is a good, cheap time if you can handle the cold. February is off-season, so hotel rates are lower and roads are quieter. Days can be clear, but nights drop near freezing and Ghum is often in fog. Pack thermals, gloves and a warm hat.

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