Walk to old Rumtek monastery

Most visitors see only the big Dharma Chakra Centre and leave. Lower down the hill is the older monastery, a smaller building in its own compound. It is a working shrine, used by monks and villagers rather than tour groups. It is quiet, and on most afternoons you will have it nearly to yourself, with only the creak of prayer wheels for company. Go in the late afternoon for the softest light.

Ask in the village for the way, as paths and road shortcuts change. The walk is steep in places, so wear proper shoes and carry water. On the way you pass houses with kitchen gardens, small shrines and stacks of firewood. Greet people with a simple namaste or tashi delek. If you are tired, a local taxi can drop you near the gate for a small fare, and pick you up again later.

At the old monastery, walk clockwise around the building and turn the prayer wheels as you go. If the doors are open and a caretaker is present, ask before going in, and leave a small offering if you wish. Sit outside for ten minutes. In the late afternoon light, the hills across the valley turn gold and Gangtok's houses stack up on its ridge. Head back before dark, as lanes are unlit.