A homestay night in the forest

Homestays in Lepchajagat are small, family-run houses along or just off the main road, usually with three to six rooms. Rooms are simple and clean, with thick quilts and attached or shared bathrooms. Hot water may come from a geyser or a bucket heated in the kitchen. Ask what is included before booking: most prices cover breakfast and dinner, and some include lunch and evening tea with snacks.

Dinner is the best part. Expect rice, dal, a seasonal vegetable such as squash or mustard greens, achar made with local chillies and, on request, chicken or eggs. Some families cook gundruk, fermented leafy greens, or serve sel roti in the morning. Eat in the kitchen if you are invited; it is the warmest room in the house. After dinner there is little to do but sit outside, listen to the forest and look at the stars.

Book directly by phone or through a known agent, and pay the balance in cash on arrival. Evenings are cold most of the year, so carry warm layers and a torch for power cuts. Do not play loud music outside; sound travels in the forest and neighbours are close. Leave by mid-morning if you are heading for Mirik, so you see the tea gardens before afternoon mist.