Haa's White and Black temples

Lhakhang Karpo, the White Temple, stands less than a kilometre south of Wangchuck Lhodzong at the edge of Haa town. It is the larger of the two, with whitewashed walls, a wide courtyard and a backdrop of three forested hills, Miri Phünsum, the 'three brothers'. The temple was extensively restored and partly rebuilt around 2011, so the paint and woodwork look newer than the site's age. Local historians date its founding to the 7th century, in the reign of the Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo, the same period tradition gives Kyichu Lhakhang in Paro.

Lhakhang Nagpo, the Black Temple, is a short distance away. It is smaller and quieter, and inside is a small pool associated with Mahakala, the protector deity. The legend that links the two is told in several ways: a white pigeon and a black pigeon, emanations of Songtsen Gampo, flew here from Tibet and landed where the temples now stand; or bright and dark rays of light marked the spots. Treat these as legends, and ask your guide which version his or her family tells.

Visit in the morning, when butter lamps are being lit and caretakers are about. Wear long sleeves and long trousers or a skirt, take off caps and shoes where asked, and do not photograph inside the shrine rooms. Walk around both temples clockwise. Both are working places of worship, so if a ritual is under way, wait quietly at the back or come back later. Combine the visit with a slow walk through town and past the dzong for a gentle first half-day after the Chele La drive.