Day one: the climb to Jele Dzong

The trek usually begins near the National Museum above Paro town, at around 2,400 m. From the road, the trail climbs steadily through farmland, then blue pine and rhododendron forest, gaining roughly 1,000 m to reach Jele Dzong at about 3,450–3,500 m. Allow 4–5 hours with breaks. It is the hardest day for many people, because the body is not yet used to the effort at this altitude.

Jele Dzong is a small fortress with a temple, sitting on a saddle on the ridge with views down to Paro and, on clear days, north towards Jomolhari. It guarded one of the old routes between the two valleys. Your guide can ask whether the temple is open for a visit; sometimes the caretaker is there, sometimes not. The camp is set up in a meadow nearby.

Walk slowly on this first day, much slower than feels necessary, and drink plenty of water. The ponies carry your bag, so you walk with a day pack of water, snacks, rain jacket and a warm layer. Evenings at the camp turn cold fast once the sun goes, so put on your down jacket early and enjoy the view of Paro's lights below.