Membartsho, the Burning Lake of Pema Lingpa

Membartsho lies in the Tang valley, about 30 minutes' drive from Jakar on the road that branches off towards Ura. A short path leads down from the road through prayer flags and juniper to a gorge where the Tang Chhu narrows into a deep, still pool between rock walls. The name means 'Burning Lake'. Small clay tsa-tsas, offering figures, line ledges in the rock, and the surrounding trees are thick with prayer flags.

Legend tells that Pema Lingpa, the 15th-century treasure-revealer of Bumthang, had a vision of treasure hidden here by Guru Rinpoche. When local people and the governor doubted him, he jumped into the pool holding a lit butter lamp, saying that if he was a true terton he would return with the treasure and the lamp still burning; if not, he would die. He came up holding a chest and a scroll, with the lamp alight. It is a legend, but a deeply held one.

Pilgrims float small butter lamps on the water and say prayers; you can buy one at the site or bring a candle. The rocks above the pool are slippery and have no railings, so keep children close and do not climb onto the ledges for photos. Dress modestly. There is no entry fee. Combine the visit with the drive to Ura village, or with the Tang valley's Ogyen Choling museum if you have a full day.