Tihar
Oct–Nov, five days around Diwali
Tihar arrives about two weeks after Dashain and runs for five days. The first day honours crows, which are fed at dawn. The second, Kukur Tihar, honours dogs, and you will see the town's dogs wearing marigold garlands and red tika. The third day honours the cow and Laxmi, goddess of wealth, and houses are lit with oil lamps and electric lights.
On the evenings of Tihar, groups of young people go from house to house singing Bhailo and Deusi songs, receiving money, sweets and sel roti in return. The last day, Bhai Tika, is for brothers and sisters: sisters give their brothers a seven-coloured tika and garlands of makhamali flowers, and brothers give gifts in return.
For visitors, Tihar is the prettiest week in the hills. The air is usually clear, Kangchenjunga is often visible in the mornings, and the town glows at night. It is still busy season, so book ahead, and expect some shops to close on Bhai Tika.
How to do it well
- Walk the lanes below Chowrasta after dark on the third evening, when houses are lit for Laxmi Puja.
- If Deusi singers come to your homestay, a small gift of ₹100–200 is the custom.
- Do not feed street dogs on Kukur Tihar unless locals invite you; garlanded dogs can be overwhelmed.
Questions people ask
Good to know
When is Tihar in Darjeeling
Tihar falls at Diwali, usually in late October or November, and lasts five days. It follows the lunar calendar, so the dates change every year. The busiest evenings are the third day, Laxmi Puja, and the last day, Bhai Tika. Check the exact dates before you travel.
What is Kukur Tihar
Kukur Tihar is the second day of Tihar, when dogs are honoured. Families and shopkeepers put red tika on their dogs' foreheads, garland them with marigolds and give them good food. In Darjeeling you will see the town's street and pet dogs wearing garlands all day. It is a real custom, not a tourist show.
What are Deusi and Bhailo
Deusi and Bhailo are songs sung door to door during Tihar. Girls traditionally sing Bhailo and boys sing Deusi, though mixed groups are common now. Households give money, fruit, sweets and sel roti in return. In homestays the singers may arrive late in the evening, and guests often join in.
Is Darjeeling crowded during Diwali
Yes, Diwali week is busy, especially with travellers from Kolkata and Siliguri, and hotel prices are high. It is also one of the best weeks for clear morning views. Book rooms and cars two to four weeks ahead, and plan sightseeing early in the day to stay ahead of the traffic.