Kagyed Dance
Early December, 28th–29th day of the tenth Tibetan month
Kagyed is performed on the 28th and 29th days of the tenth month of the Tibetan calendar, which usually falls in early December. The main performance is in the shrine courtyard of Tsuklakhang Palace in Gangtok, and monasteries such as Phodong and Old Rumtek hold their own. The dances honour eight tantric deities and are meant to clear away the misfortunes of the passing year before the new one.
Monks in painted masks and long brocade robes move to the beat of drums, cymbals and long horns, acting out episodes from the life of Guru Padmasambhava. The mood is serious, but jesters break in between dances for comic relief, and children in the crowd wait for them. On the last day, effigies made of flour, wood and paper are carried out and burned.
Early December is one of the best times to be in Gangtok: dry, clear and cold, with the Kangchenjunga range sharp in the mornings. Hotels are quieter than in October, so rates soften. Pack warm layers, as Gangtok nights drop to around 4–6 °C, and the Tsomgo road may close after snow.
How to do it well
- Wear warm layers and carry a cushion or mat: you will sit or stand on cold stone for a couple of hours.
- Do not step into the dance area or use flash; monks perform a religious rite, not a stage show.
- Combine Kagyed with Losoong a few days later for a week that shows Sikkim's winter festival season.
Questions people ask
Good to know
When is the Kagyed dance in Gangtok
Kagyed falls on the 28th and 29th days of the tenth Tibetan lunar month, which usually lands in early December. The exact dates shift each year, so check with Sikkim Tourism or your hotel. The main performance is at Tsuklakhang Palace in Gangtok, and it takes place a few days before Losoong, the Sikkimese harvest new year.
Is there an entry fee for Kagyed at Tsuklakhang
No, there is normally no ticket. The dance is a religious performance in the palace monastery courtyard, and the public watch from around the edges. Space fills early, so arrive at least an hour ahead. Follow the volunteers' instructions about where to stand, and keep the dance area clear at all times.
What do the Kagyed dances mean
The dances honour eight tantric deities and depict stories from the life of Guru Padmasambhava, the teacher credited with bringing Buddhism to the Himalaya. Their purpose is to drive away misfortune before the new year. At the end, effigies representing evil are burned. Jesters perform between the main dances to lighten the mood.
How cold is Gangtok in early December
Expect around 5–15 °C in the day and colder nights, with dry, clear weather. Bring a warm jacket, a cap and good shoes. Higher up, Tsomgo Lake can be near freezing and snow may close the Nathu La road for a few days. Keep a buffer day for the passes and check current status before you travel.
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