Dashain
Sep–Oct, ten days ending on Vijaya Dashami
Dashain celebrates the victory of the goddess Durga over evil and runs alongside Bengal's Durga Puja, but in the hills it has its own rhythm and food. It begins on Ghatasthapana, when jamara, barley seeds, are sown in a dark corner of the house. On the tenth day, Vijaya Dashami, families gather and elders bless the younger ones with tika, a paste of rice, curd and red colour, and tuck the yellow jamara shoots behind their ears.
Families travel back from Siliguri, Kolkata and beyond, so the shared jeeps fill and the town has a holiday feel. Homes cook goat meat, sel roti and other festive dishes, and bamboo swings called ping are put up in some villages. Shops may close for the main days, and many drivers take leave.
For travellers, Dashain overlaps with the start of the clear autumn season and with the Puja holidays, the busiest time of the year for visitors from Kolkata. Book rooms, cars and train seats as early as you can, and expect higher prices. In return you see the hills at their most festive.
How to do it well
- Book NJP train seats and hill rooms as soon as Puja dates are announced; this is the busiest fortnight of the year.
- Arrange your car in advance: many drivers take leave around Tika day.
- If a family offers tika and a sweet, accept with both hands; it is a blessing, not a show.
Questions people ask
Good to know
When is Dashain celebrated in Darjeeling
Dashain falls in late September or October, following the lunar calendar, and lasts about fifteen days. The main day, Vijaya Dashami or Tika, coincides with Bijoya Dashami of Bengal's Durga Puja. Check the dates for your year before you travel, as hotel prices and transport depend heavily on them.
Is it a good idea to visit Darjeeling during Dashain and Durga Puja
It is festive and often clear, but it is the busiest and most expensive time of year. Rooms, train seats and cars sell out weeks ahead, and some shops and drivers stop work around Tika day. Book early, or come a week after the main days, when the weather is still good and crowds ease.
What is jamara in Dashain
Jamara are barley shoots grown in the dark for nine days from the first day of Dashain, so they come up pale yellow. On Tika day, elders place them on the heads or behind the ears of younger family members along with the red rice tika, as a blessing for the year ahead.
Do shops and transport close during Dashain in Darjeeling
Some do, especially on and around Tika day, when families stay home. Shared jeeps run but fill quickly with people travelling home, and fares can rise. Reserve your car in advance and keep a little cash in hand, because some ATMs run dry over the long holiday.