Norbugang throne and Kathok Lake walk

Start at the Norbugang Coronation Throne, a short walk uphill from the Yuksom bazaar. The throne is a stone platform with four seats under a large, old cryptomeria. The highest seat belonged to Lhatsun Chenpo, the senior of the three lamas who crowned Phuntsog Namgyal in 1642. Look for the stone where a depression is shown as the footprint of one of the lamas. It is a tradition rather than history, but locals treat it with respect, and so should you.

Opposite the throne stands the white Norbugang Chorten, built in 1642 after the coronation. It is said to contain earth and stones from all parts of Sikkim, and the gifts the people gave to Lhatsun Chenpo during the celebrations. Walk around it clockwise, spinning the prayer wheels as you go. The site is usually quiet, with a caretaker and a few local visitors, so it is a good place to sit and read a little history.

From Norbugang, walk on to Kathok Lake, a small pond surrounded by prayer flags and trees. Its water was used in the consecration ceremony that made Phuntsog Namgyal the first Chogyal. The whole loop takes about an hour at an easy pace and costs nothing. Go in the late afternoon if you arrive from Pelling, or early morning if you slept in Yuksom, when the light is soft and the lanes are empty.