culture · Phodong, North Sikkim
The Phodong chaam before Losoong
Chaam is a sacred masked dance performed by monks, with costumes, drums, cymbals and long horns. At Phodong the annual chaam is held on the 28th and 29th days of the tenth month of the Tibetan calendar, which usually falls in December. It is part of the lead-up to Losoong, the Sikkimese new year and harvest festival.
The dances are rituals, not shows. They tell stories linked to Guru Padmasambhava and the defeat of evil, with dancers representing deities, protectors and animals. Losoong celebrations elsewhere include the burning of an effigy representing evil. Expect long ceremonies, with gaps in between dances.
Arrive by mid-morning to find a place to stand or sit around the courtyard. Dress warmly; December days at Phodong are mild in the sun and cold in shade. Do not walk into the dance area, use flash or block monks' paths. Ask your hotel or the Sikkim Tourism office for the exact dates in your year.
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When is the Phodong Monastery festival
Phodong's annual chaam is held on the 28th and 29th days of the tenth month of the Tibetan calendar, usually in December, just before Losoong. Exact Gregorian dates change every year. Check with Sikkim Tourism or your hotel once the year's calendar is published.
Can tourists watch the Phodong chaam
Yes. Visitors are welcome to watch from around the courtyard, free of charge. Dress modestly and warmly, do not use flash, stay out of the dance area and follow instructions from monks or volunteers. Arrive early on the main day for a good spot.
What is Losoong
Losoong is the Sikkimese new year and harvest festival of the Bhutia community, held on the first day of the eleventh Tibetan month, usually in December. Lepchas celebrate a related festival called Namsoong. It is preceded by masked dances at Phodong and Rumtek monasteries.
