culture · Lachen, North Sikkim
Yak herders of the upper Lachen valley
The high country between Thangu and the Tibetan border has been grazing land for centuries. The herders, often called Dokpas, move their yak and sheep up to summer pastures and back down as snow comes, in a pattern organised with the Lachen Dzumsa, which plans seasonal movements to the higher grazing grounds.
From the car you will see yaks grazing in the moraine fields and black yak-hair tents or stone shelters near the road. Yaks give milk, butter, cheese and wool, and are still used to carry loads in places vehicles cannot reach. In 2018 yaks even carried the pipes used to start draining South Lhonak lake.
Do not walk up to herds or herders' camps for photos. Yaks are large and nervous, and herding dogs guard the camps. Use a longer lens from the road and ask your driver whether stopping is allowed; parts of this plateau are army-controlled and stops are restricted.
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Questions people ask
Good to know
Will I see yaks on the way to Gurudongmar
Usually yes, especially from late spring to autumn when herds graze around Thangu and on the plateau below the lake. In deep winter many herds move lower. Sightings are not guaranteed. Watch from the vehicle or the roadside and ask your driver before stopping, since some stretches are army-controlled.
Can I ride a yak at Gurudongmar or Yumthang
Some herders at Yumthang offer short yak photo rides in season for a fee. We suggest skipping it: the animals are working stock, the ground is uneven and falls happen. At Gurudongmar there are no organised rides. If you do ride, agree the price first and keep children off.
Who are the Dokpa herders
Dokpa is a general Tibetan word for nomadic herders of the high pastures. In North Sikkim it is used for families who move yak and sheep between seasonal grazing grounds above Lachen. Their movements are coordinated with the Lachen Dzumsa, the village council. Treat their camps as private homes.
