Farm lanes and organic fields at Ranka

After visiting Lingdum, ask your driver to wait and walk down one of the lanes below the monastery for half an hour or an hour. You are likely to pass terraces of maize and vegetables, patches of ginger, and in shaded spots the broad leaves of large cardamom, one of Sikkim's main cash crops. Houses sit among their own gardens, with chickens, cows and stacks of firewood. Give way to anyone carrying loads on narrow paths.

Sikkim was declared India's first fully organic state in January 2016, after phasing out chemical fertilisers and pesticides. On farms like these, that means compost, cow manure and mixed planting. Farmers are busy people, so greet them, but do not walk into fields or private yards without being invited. If someone offers tea, accept it gracefully and do not offer money unless it is clearly a shop. Ask before photographing people or homes.

The walk is free and needs no guide, though a local driver can point out the right lanes. Wear shoes with grip, as paths are often wet. Carry your own water and bring your rubbish back to Gangtok. The best light and the most activity are in the morning. From June to September leeches can be common on grassy paths, so keep to the road and check your socks afterwards.