Now in the hills

DarjeelingTour Plan

nature · Murti, Dooars

Evening on the Murti riverbank

1–2 hoursLate afternoon, Nov – MarFree
Evening on the Murti riverbank
Photo: Rajibnandi · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons
The simplest pleasure at Murti: walk down to the wide stony riverbed in the late afternoon, sit on a rock and watch the light fade over Gorumara. In winter the water runs clear and shallow over the stones.

From either of the government lodges or the village, paths lead down to the river. In winter the Murti runs in a few channels over a bed of rounded stones, wide enough to feel open after the forest. Across the water is the edge of Gorumara, and in the evening you may hear peafowl and see egrets flying to roost.

Birdwatchers can find white-browed and white wagtails, river lapwings, plumbeous and white-capped redstarts on the rocks, and kingfishers working the channels. Bring a flask of tea or buy one in the village. As the sun sets, mist forms over the water in the cold months.

Stay on the near side of the river and do not cross to the forest bank, which is inside the protected area. Leave before dark; elephants come down to the river at night. Paddle at the edges only, never swim, and carry back any rubbish, even if others do not.

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Questions people ask

Good to know

Can I swim in the Murti river

No. Even in winter, when the Murti looks shallow, there are fast channels and very cold water, and people have drowned in Dooars rivers. Paddle only at the edges where you can see the bottom, keep children close, and never go in during or after rain.

Is Murti crowded

On Sundays, holidays and especially from Christmas to New Year, the riverbank fills with picnic groups and loudspeakers. On weekdays and early mornings it is quiet. If you want calm, avoid those dates and walk a little upstream or downstream from the main access points.

What birds can I see on the Murti river

In winter, wagtails, river lapwings, plumbeous and white-capped redstarts, kingfishers including the crested kingfisher in some years, egrets and cormorants. Forest birds such as hornbills, parakeets and drongos fly over from Gorumara. Early morning and late afternoon are best.

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