Kyichu Lhakhang and the valley road at dawn

Kyichu Lhakhang stands among fields about 4 km north of Paro town, on the road towards the Tiger's Nest. Bhutanese tradition holds that it was built in the 7th century by the Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo, one of 108 temples raised across the Himalaya in a single night to pin down a giant demoness who was blocking the spread of Buddhism. Kyichu is said to hold down her left foot; Jambay Lhakhang in Bumthang holds her left knee. It is a tradition rather than recorded history, but it is very old.

The temple is small, with two courtyards, prayer wheels lining the outer wall and orange trees that are said to fruit all year. The old Jowo temple holds a statue of Jowo Shakyamuni. In 1971 Queen Ashi Kesang Choden Wangchuck built a Guru temple beside it, consecrated by Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche, one of the great Tibetan teachers of the 20th century.

Go early. From about 6 am elderly villagers walk around the temple again and again, spinning the prayer wheels, and you can join the clockwise loop. It is the quietest, most local experience in Paro and takes no more than an hour. Entry is about Nu 500, indicative 2026. Dress modestly and remove shoes inside. Combine it with the drive north to the Tiger's Nest car park on the same morning.